Mr. Tipton, expert horticulturist,
B.S. in Botany from Bancroft,
Girls wiggle giggling past his tulips,
Aloof, untouched by their perfume,
Sets about his planting routinely,
Petticoat rose petals, sunlit maidens,
Unruffled, he scribes in his journal,
Hair ribbons dangling lilac in color,
Briars and thorns next to bare white flesh,
He wonders if they will be careful,
Claire and Amanda in the high phlox,
Pungent beehive nectar saturated air,
Undaunted, he gathers his fork and spade,
Songbird ballad, sunset amber behind silhouettes,
Scientific mind, unflappable, hopes they return tomorrow…
Another unrequited love. Do you like it, the poem, I mean?
You spelled "Old Perv in a lab coat" and "orgy" wrong... Otherwise it is perfect!
Reply:It made not one bit of sence to me whatsoever just a bunch of jumbled up words put into paragraphs. Report It
Reply:I was expecting "roses are red, violets are blue" or something along those lines.....but I guess what you have there is ok
Reply:it's sad...what can't they have a happy ending?
EDIT: There's a huge demand for you to write a love novel. Are you up to it, Richard? Let us all know. =) see this:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
amc theatre
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
I have a cinder block wall that I need to cover...?
Hey guys, I have a HORRIBLY ugly umm approxiamately 3 foot tall cinder block retaining wall acroos the front of my lawn. I have decided to use a vine of some kind to cover it, instead of painting it, or veneering it with some crazy crap. It would just be tacky then. BUT!, I cant decide what to cover it in...I have english ivy that grows on a fence and has been growing on the brick of my house. I thought I could just take some of that and get it to root inside an replant it. Wonder if that would work? Do you all have any suggestions for a vine type plant for cover. HERES THE DEAL THOUGH...It would have to grow down the wall, not up! The wall is the end of the yard, and then there is the lovely sidewalk. We do have some established plants such as creping phlox and burberry bushes and such, WHICH I LOVE! I dont have any problem pruning, as I am always pulling weeds, planting flowers, or lord knows with the landscaping. I need some ideas people...help me out..I am in zone 7!
I have a cinder block wall that I need to cover...?
you could try creeping fig...or use the ivy. the ivy will root if you cut some off and stick it in the ground. The rule of thumb is first year a sleeper, second year a creeper, third year a leaper - so don't expect it to be an immediate fix.
hope this helps
Reply:you could try a honey suckle vine, they have nice drape, i.e. they would hang down over the wall.
Ivey roots really easily, if you decide to take that route, just pull out a few long runners and tuck them in the soil and they'll grow.
Reply:TRY A MORNING GLORY, THEY ARE A VINE AND GROW RAPIDLY AND COME BACK EVERY YEAR.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morning FOR PICS AND DETAILS
Reply:I like option two, i think it would be a lot nicer if you got something that flowered
I have a cinder block wall that I need to cover...?
you could try creeping fig...or use the ivy. the ivy will root if you cut some off and stick it in the ground. The rule of thumb is first year a sleeper, second year a creeper, third year a leaper - so don't expect it to be an immediate fix.
hope this helps
Reply:you could try a honey suckle vine, they have nice drape, i.e. they would hang down over the wall.
Ivey roots really easily, if you decide to take that route, just pull out a few long runners and tuck them in the soil and they'll grow.
Reply:TRY A MORNING GLORY, THEY ARE A VINE AND GROW RAPIDLY AND COME BACK EVERY YEAR.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morning FOR PICS AND DETAILS
Reply:I like option two, i think it would be a lot nicer if you got something that flowered
My Undecided Muse (rough draft)...how can I improve it?
My muse, she is a fickle bird
her songs stretch far and wide.
she often sings of many things
her real voice she hides.
With poet's beak, she pecks out words
that soothes or stirs or stabs.
Her silver tongue can move your soul
or cut you with it's jabs.
She'll scratch and sketch away the day
with talons of graphite.
Her nimble feet are made for clay;
she sculpts throughout the night.
Her water color tinted plumes
are such a lovely sight.
She'll paint the oceans and the waves
with rays of spectral light.
With silken oils from downy hues
She'll paint her lover's face
and touch on every part of him
with subtlty and grace.
Sweet William sits among the phlox
as roses scent the air.
She works her garden masterpiece
with poise and savoirfaire.
Since every art appeals to her,
It's hard for me to choose
which craft is most appealing to
my undecided muse.
My Undecided Muse (rough draft)...how can I improve it?
Since you excel at all of them, why choose? Outstanding imagery in this poem.
In S 2, change "it's" to "its."
Reply:Rough draft my eye!
This is as smooth as a babies bottom. Do not try to improve on perfection. You have meter and rhyme and words that flow like water in a mountain brook. Do not change jot nor tittle, but leave it as is, and let TD put it in our next book. Such beautiful words from such a beautiful lady.
Reply:I looked up the word poetry in one of my dictionaries and that was the definition it gave.
I don't think you could loose any of your pleasantries in any medium. You could probably compose a beautiful little diddy on the oboe.
Reply:I can completely relate... though mine, like Rouxe's, has apparently committed suicide. Though for different reasons. Mine just saw that I didn't need her anymore... I do miss her though, it made things a hell of a lot easier...
Blessed Be
Reply:its very good
With silken oils from downy hues
She'll paint her lover's face
and touch on every part of him
with subtlty and grace.
**i would just get with of the on part
so it would be
and touch every part of him
Reply:I'm with Dondi on this one...It's absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!
(When do you sleep, my dear?)
Question: How do you keep it all straight?? Between work, garden and TRYING to write my mind is a jumbled mess!
Reply:savoirfaire- I LOVE that word.
Wait, I love most every word in this poem.
Reply:Sweet. Get her some watercolors and a flute. TD
Reply:As the it's has already been pointed out, it saves me the job.
so.....what does that leave me to be picky-picky about?
One line....because your rhythm is so strong....we, your readers, are forced into pronouncing 'graphite' as 'graPHITE'
The second verse I think would be better like this..
With poet's beak, she pecks out words
that sooth or stir or stab.
Her silver tongue can move your soul
or cut you with its jabs.
(it doesn't matter that stab/jabs isn't absolutely exact as rhymes...it is quite acceptable)
And that's it.
I loved the rhythm and the rhyme, and your use of language
______________________________________...
Now, my suggestion is....and this was said to me when I was in my rhyming phase.....try re-doing this in free form.
I found it extremely difficult, since I naturally create rhymes in my head as I write....but, I found it a valuable exercise.
The theme you have chosen is very cleverly explored and I enjoyed it very much.
Reply:Your Muse does not speak to me of what you are and are not good at, It tells me of all the little glimmering things that catch your eye. Fickle, yes, but never unsettled (resting wise), she (or he) flits about, drawing your eye every-which-way it decides for the time being. I am nothing compared to many but I DO know how it is to have a fickle Muse.
Please tell me you know what I am saying here... do you ever find yourself wanting to try everything around you concerning art, when you do you are not too shabby but you find yourself in need of placing your brain in a completely new setting (like SpinCycle for the colors and WellDone for the Violin) AND that it is difficult to do two different styles in the same day or too closely together? Maybe I am simply insane and no one else would have a clue as to what I speak but that is what I am reminded of when I read this poem.
I loved it, though, as you said, it is a rough draft... everything, no manner who you are, could stand a little improving. Even Poe, had he went back over his work, would have found tiny qualms. He WAS a tortured soul you know.
Even Insane in a Wholesome Manner, Tilden
Reply:Line edit by an editor, no charge; hope you don't mind.
This is an almost perfect poem. I love the way you describe each of the many items a creative person does, and pulling it together from beginning to end with your muse.
I don't know why my meter count isn't showing on the lines, but they are perfect 8686 and ABCB stazas throughout. (i.e.)
Great work!
My muse, she is a fickle bird..........(8)
her songs stretch far and wide........(6)
She often sings of many things........(8)
her cheerful voice she hides............(6) %26lt;-- changed a word
Delightful stanza...
With poet's beak, she pecks out words ... (8)
that soothes or stirs or stabs........................(6)
Her silver tongue can move your soul..........(8)
or cut you with it's jabs...................................(...
Perfect!
She'll scratch and sketch away the day........(8)
with talons of graphite................................... %26lt;-- very rough line -- it fits the meter, but breaks up the flow
Her nimble feet are made for clay;................(8)
she sculpts throughout the night.....................(6)
Maybe:
touching pens and graphite........................... (6)
Her water color tinted plumes ........................(8)
are such a lovely sight......................................
She'll paint the oceans and the waves...........(8)
with rays of spectral light..................................(...
Perfect, again!
With silken oils from downy hues.....................(8)
She'll paint her lover's face...............................(6)
and touch on every part of him.........................(8)
with subtlty and grace......................................
Beautiful!
Sweet William sits among the phlox................(8)
as roses scent the air........................................
She works her garden masterpiece.................(8)
with poise and savoirfaire................................
Excellent -- love the high class of this stanza.
Since every art appeals to her,.........................(8)
It's hard for me to choose .................................(6)
which craft is most appealing to ......................(8)
my undecided muse.......................................
her songs stretch far and wide.
she often sings of many things
her real voice she hides.
With poet's beak, she pecks out words
that soothes or stirs or stabs.
Her silver tongue can move your soul
or cut you with it's jabs.
She'll scratch and sketch away the day
with talons of graphite.
Her nimble feet are made for clay;
she sculpts throughout the night.
Her water color tinted plumes
are such a lovely sight.
She'll paint the oceans and the waves
with rays of spectral light.
With silken oils from downy hues
She'll paint her lover's face
and touch on every part of him
with subtlty and grace.
Sweet William sits among the phlox
as roses scent the air.
She works her garden masterpiece
with poise and savoirfaire.
Since every art appeals to her,
It's hard for me to choose
which craft is most appealing to
my undecided muse.
My Undecided Muse (rough draft)...how can I improve it?
Since you excel at all of them, why choose? Outstanding imagery in this poem.
In S 2, change "it's" to "its."
Reply:Rough draft my eye!
This is as smooth as a babies bottom. Do not try to improve on perfection. You have meter and rhyme and words that flow like water in a mountain brook. Do not change jot nor tittle, but leave it as is, and let TD put it in our next book. Such beautiful words from such a beautiful lady.
Reply:I looked up the word poetry in one of my dictionaries and that was the definition it gave.
I don't think you could loose any of your pleasantries in any medium. You could probably compose a beautiful little diddy on the oboe.
Reply:I can completely relate... though mine, like Rouxe's, has apparently committed suicide. Though for different reasons. Mine just saw that I didn't need her anymore... I do miss her though, it made things a hell of a lot easier...
Blessed Be
Reply:its very good
With silken oils from downy hues
She'll paint her lover's face
and touch on every part of him
with subtlty and grace.
**i would just get with of the on part
so it would be
and touch every part of him
Reply:I'm with Dondi on this one...It's absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!
(When do you sleep, my dear?)
Question: How do you keep it all straight?? Between work, garden and TRYING to write my mind is a jumbled mess!
Reply:savoirfaire- I LOVE that word.
Wait, I love most every word in this poem.
Reply:Sweet. Get her some watercolors and a flute. TD
Reply:As the it's has already been pointed out, it saves me the job.
so.....what does that leave me to be picky-picky about?
One line....because your rhythm is so strong....we, your readers, are forced into pronouncing 'graphite' as 'graPHITE'
The second verse I think would be better like this..
With poet's beak, she pecks out words
that sooth or stir or stab.
Her silver tongue can move your soul
or cut you with its jabs.
(it doesn't matter that stab/jabs isn't absolutely exact as rhymes...it is quite acceptable)
And that's it.
I loved the rhythm and the rhyme, and your use of language
______________________________________...
Now, my suggestion is....and this was said to me when I was in my rhyming phase.....try re-doing this in free form.
I found it extremely difficult, since I naturally create rhymes in my head as I write....but, I found it a valuable exercise.
The theme you have chosen is very cleverly explored and I enjoyed it very much.
Reply:Your Muse does not speak to me of what you are and are not good at, It tells me of all the little glimmering things that catch your eye. Fickle, yes, but never unsettled (resting wise), she (or he) flits about, drawing your eye every-which-way it decides for the time being. I am nothing compared to many but I DO know how it is to have a fickle Muse.
Please tell me you know what I am saying here... do you ever find yourself wanting to try everything around you concerning art, when you do you are not too shabby but you find yourself in need of placing your brain in a completely new setting (like SpinCycle for the colors and WellDone for the Violin) AND that it is difficult to do two different styles in the same day or too closely together? Maybe I am simply insane and no one else would have a clue as to what I speak but that is what I am reminded of when I read this poem.
I loved it, though, as you said, it is a rough draft... everything, no manner who you are, could stand a little improving. Even Poe, had he went back over his work, would have found tiny qualms. He WAS a tortured soul you know.
Even Insane in a Wholesome Manner, Tilden
Reply:Line edit by an editor, no charge; hope you don't mind.
This is an almost perfect poem. I love the way you describe each of the many items a creative person does, and pulling it together from beginning to end with your muse.
I don't know why my meter count isn't showing on the lines, but they are perfect 8686 and ABCB stazas throughout. (i.e.)
Great work!
My muse, she is a fickle bird..........(8)
her songs stretch far and wide........(6)
She often sings of many things........(8)
her cheerful voice she hides............(6) %26lt;-- changed a word
Delightful stanza...
With poet's beak, she pecks out words ... (8)
that soothes or stirs or stabs........................(6)
Her silver tongue can move your soul..........(8)
or cut you with it's jabs...................................(...
Perfect!
She'll scratch and sketch away the day........(8)
with talons of graphite................................... %26lt;-- very rough line -- it fits the meter, but breaks up the flow
Her nimble feet are made for clay;................(8)
she sculpts throughout the night.....................(6)
Maybe:
touching pens and graphite........................... (6)
Her water color tinted plumes ........................(8)
are such a lovely sight......................................
She'll paint the oceans and the waves...........(8)
with rays of spectral light..................................(...
Perfect, again!
With silken oils from downy hues.....................(8)
She'll paint her lover's face...............................(6)
and touch on every part of him.........................(8)
with subtlty and grace......................................
Beautiful!
Sweet William sits among the phlox................(8)
as roses scent the air........................................
She works her garden masterpiece.................(8)
with poise and savoirfaire................................
Excellent -- love the high class of this stanza.
Since every art appeals to her,.........................(8)
It's hard for me to choose .................................(6)
which craft is most appealing to ......................(8)
my undecided muse.......................................
Getting Ready for Winter- Pond questions and Perennials?
I am trying to get my backyard ready for winter and I was wondering about my perennials and what to do with them. I have a couple of hostas that need to be split and I was wondering if I could trim them down (then replant now) or is that going to damage their growth for next spring? Another perennial I have is some type of phlox that I am not sure what to do with....
Also,I have a plastic pond with Cattails and I was wondering if i have to do anything special with them to have them come back next year. Any help would be great !
Getting Ready for Winter- Pond questions and Perennials?
you can trim back your hostas to the ground now, but do not dig up and split now. in spring, before they get too large, dig them up and divide and replant them then. you can also trim your phlox to the ground now. some people prefer to leave there perennials as is for the winter. i like to cut almost everything back for a more kempt look.
sorry, i don't know about your pond question...
Also,I have a plastic pond with Cattails and I was wondering if i have to do anything special with them to have them come back next year. Any help would be great !
Getting Ready for Winter- Pond questions and Perennials?
you can trim back your hostas to the ground now, but do not dig up and split now. in spring, before they get too large, dig them up and divide and replant them then. you can also trim your phlox to the ground now. some people prefer to leave there perennials as is for the winter. i like to cut almost everything back for a more kempt look.
sorry, i don't know about your pond question...
Landscapers Challenge - East side, Zone 3/4?
I am landscaping the east side of my house that is in zone 3/4.
Here is my challenge:
I want to put 7-9 shrubs along my house between the house and the brick path that connects the front and back doors. The depth of the bed ranges from 4 to 7.5 feet. I want a couple evergreen shrubs (I favor yews strongly) and I want to hide the uglies of that side of the house (utilities, foundation).
My ideas for shrubs so far are yews, miss kim lilac, ivory halo dogwood, dark horse weigelas, shrub roses, and a burning bush. I'll fill in the front along the path with daylilies, sedum, and perhaps phlox.
Do you have better ideas, or can you point out a plant I've listed that you disagree with? The house is dark so I want the plants to work with it. I tried uploading 4 pictures here:
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/...
Hopefully that link works - let me know if it doesn't.
Thanks for looking, and suggest away!!!
Thanks
Landscapers Challenge - East side, Zone 3/4?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. The one thing you need to think about is do you want your shrubs to be deciduous or evergreen. There are some low maintenance shrubs that would do well along your area. Consider doing a combination of deciduous and evergreen, so you don't have dead space in the winter months.
Dwarf Hemlocks would be a good choice and also different Arborvitaes. They are both evergreen and would provide you with year around color. There are many different varieties of Arborvitaes that would hide your utilities.
I will link you to gallery of plants section of my website and also the variety of plants of my website. There are photos and descriptions that may help you. Good luck to you and if you need further help, feel free to contact me. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
my horses
Here is my challenge:
I want to put 7-9 shrubs along my house between the house and the brick path that connects the front and back doors. The depth of the bed ranges from 4 to 7.5 feet. I want a couple evergreen shrubs (I favor yews strongly) and I want to hide the uglies of that side of the house (utilities, foundation).
My ideas for shrubs so far are yews, miss kim lilac, ivory halo dogwood, dark horse weigelas, shrub roses, and a burning bush. I'll fill in the front along the path with daylilies, sedum, and perhaps phlox.
Do you have better ideas, or can you point out a plant I've listed that you disagree with? The house is dark so I want the plants to work with it. I tried uploading 4 pictures here:
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/...
Hopefully that link works - let me know if it doesn't.
Thanks for looking, and suggest away!!!
Thanks
Landscapers Challenge - East side, Zone 3/4?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. The one thing you need to think about is do you want your shrubs to be deciduous or evergreen. There are some low maintenance shrubs that would do well along your area. Consider doing a combination of deciduous and evergreen, so you don't have dead space in the winter months.
Dwarf Hemlocks would be a good choice and also different Arborvitaes. They are both evergreen and would provide you with year around color. There are many different varieties of Arborvitaes that would hide your utilities.
I will link you to gallery of plants section of my website and also the variety of plants of my website. There are photos and descriptions that may help you. Good luck to you and if you need further help, feel free to contact me. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
my horses
Butterfly Flower Garden AND Weed Problem?
In the Spring I'm going to plant a seed mixture of Alcea rosea, Asclepias tuberose, Aster novae-angliae, Clarkia amoena, Cosmos bipinnatus, Delphinium consolida, Digitalis purpurea, Echinacea purpurea, lavatera trimestris, Malope trifida, Mirabilis jalapa, Monarda citriodora, Nicotiana affinis, Petalostemum purpureum, Phlox drummondii, Salvia coccinea, Trifolium incarnatum, Tropaeolum majus and Zinnia elegans.
Last Spring/Summer we had a huge weed problem we would spray weed killer and rip out weeds but they would keep coming back. We finally put down Weed Defense Fabric that lets air, water and nutrients through, not weeds. Then put mulch on top to hold down the fabric. I would like to start a butterfly garden and I'm worried if I cut the fabric that the weeds will grow through the openings. If I plant a butterfly garden I can't use a weed killer as it will harm the butterflys. Can anyone help?
Butterfly Flower Garden AND Weed Problem?
You can use the fabric, and put mulch on top of it. I prefer to use newspaper instead of the fabric, because the newspaper will breakdown and It helps the soil.
Reply:I am assuming you are going to propagate your seeds into plants first?? because you wont be able to cut lots of holes in the fabric to sow them, as that will defeat the object of the weed fabric.
If you cut a cross in the fabric, then plant your plant in the hole and fold the 4 corners back in, this should stop any annual weed seeds from blowing in.But unfortunately there may already be annual seeds in the soil from previous years (the old saying goes-one years seeds are 10 years weeds) and these weeds may find there way through the slits.If you have perennial weeds in there they may also find their way up if close to a slit.You will just have to pull or dig these out by hand.
If you want butterflies, you will get lots if you plant a buddleia shrub.Most grow into huge shrubs which will withstand hard pruning, but there are dwarf varieties. Lavender and thyme do the trick also.
Good luck with the butterflies.
Reply:Mulch mulch mulch. At least 3" if not 4". And keep weeding. Weeds will only grow if you allow them to.
Reply:Use plants, not seeds, even if it means growing them all in pots first. The more developed they are the better they will stand up to the weed competition! A seed doesn't stand a chance and a bulb isn't much better.
I wouldn't worry too much if you use plants. You'd only be cutting small holes to put them in and you can push the fabric and mulch back around them. A few weeds probably will get through but the fabric will still suppress most of them and you'll only have to weed just around your plants.
Good luck!
Reply:I gather you want a nice pleasant low maintanance garden, that attracts butterflies. I have to say that most weed suppresents's are ineffective, I've been in the horticultural business for 20 years, and my family a lot longer. If you cut the fabric weeds suppresent, boy are you inviting trouble. You don't say which area you're from, this would help all on web to give advice.
As to to the seed mixture , I'd be a little wary of Digitais purpurea, I presume you know foxgloves are poisionous, especially where children are concerned?
Last Spring/Summer we had a huge weed problem we would spray weed killer and rip out weeds but they would keep coming back. We finally put down Weed Defense Fabric that lets air, water and nutrients through, not weeds. Then put mulch on top to hold down the fabric. I would like to start a butterfly garden and I'm worried if I cut the fabric that the weeds will grow through the openings. If I plant a butterfly garden I can't use a weed killer as it will harm the butterflys. Can anyone help?
Butterfly Flower Garden AND Weed Problem?
You can use the fabric, and put mulch on top of it. I prefer to use newspaper instead of the fabric, because the newspaper will breakdown and It helps the soil.
Reply:I am assuming you are going to propagate your seeds into plants first?? because you wont be able to cut lots of holes in the fabric to sow them, as that will defeat the object of the weed fabric.
If you cut a cross in the fabric, then plant your plant in the hole and fold the 4 corners back in, this should stop any annual weed seeds from blowing in.But unfortunately there may already be annual seeds in the soil from previous years (the old saying goes-one years seeds are 10 years weeds) and these weeds may find there way through the slits.If you have perennial weeds in there they may also find their way up if close to a slit.You will just have to pull or dig these out by hand.
If you want butterflies, you will get lots if you plant a buddleia shrub.Most grow into huge shrubs which will withstand hard pruning, but there are dwarf varieties. Lavender and thyme do the trick also.
Good luck with the butterflies.
Reply:Mulch mulch mulch. At least 3" if not 4". And keep weeding. Weeds will only grow if you allow them to.
Reply:Use plants, not seeds, even if it means growing them all in pots first. The more developed they are the better they will stand up to the weed competition! A seed doesn't stand a chance and a bulb isn't much better.
I wouldn't worry too much if you use plants. You'd only be cutting small holes to put them in and you can push the fabric and mulch back around them. A few weeds probably will get through but the fabric will still suppress most of them and you'll only have to weed just around your plants.
Good luck!
Reply:I gather you want a nice pleasant low maintanance garden, that attracts butterflies. I have to say that most weed suppresents's are ineffective, I've been in the horticultural business for 20 years, and my family a lot longer. If you cut the fabric weeds suppresent, boy are you inviting trouble. You don't say which area you're from, this would help all on web to give advice.
As to to the seed mixture , I'd be a little wary of Digitais purpurea, I presume you know foxgloves are poisionous, especially where children are concerned?
Question about planting pansies. See details below:?
I bought some recently and planted them, but apparently they don't spread. Is this true? Do I need to plant them very close together to get some color? I bought more, and did that, but it still doesn't look all that great. Am I expecting too much out of them? Also, will they survive occasional freezing weather, even when the temperature doesn't go over freezing for around 72 hours before warming back up above freezing?
I live in western North Carolina in the mountains.
I also bought some phlox today, hoping it will survive, even though I planted it today. I assume it's pretty hardy, since it didn't die off when we had freezing weather a couple of times already. Suggestions? Advice?
Question about planting pansies. See details below:?
I have a few answers to your many questions about pansies. They will not spread but rather develop larger plants reducing the space between plants. They are generally planted 8-9 inches from center of plant to center of plant. They are one of the most reliable winter plants for taking extremes in temperatures and still blooming. However, this is one of the fascinating things about pansies, they bloom on nitrogen, one of a handful of plants to do so. A lot of people will fertiliuze with blood meal,(actually animal blood) purchased at local garden centers. After planting your pansies, it would be good to mulch with a hardwood mulch or with your pine straw there in N.C. Both the phlox and the pansies are great plants, always water before a hard freeze. The moisture actually protects the roots from what is known in the trade as Dry-Freeze Kill. Happy gardening.
Reply:Pansies are cold weather plants. They can tolerate freezes. They don't "spread" but will become full, compact plants given time. They are heavy feeders, you can MiracleGro them weekly. Dead head for more blooms. Or let them go to seed for you to collect. In a couple of months one pansy can grow to be 8-10" tall, bushing to 12" in diameter.
They will root in water and reseed themselves. Lovely light scent too.
Reply:If you have several colors, instead of mixing them up plant 2 or 3 of the same color next to each other. When they grow towards each other they will look more like one big plant of the same color :-)
I've always heard they can survive without cover down to 25 degrees. To be safe, mulch around them, water before a freeze and throw a cover over them during the freeze time.
Reply:Hello,
My pansies last year I would take off the developed seed pod and throw the seeds back into where the pansies were planted and I had so many pansies!!
We took them broke the roots up and planted them into the ground. In the ground they stayed nice with there flowers well into freezing. I have not been out there to check on them, but they were the longest lasting flower we had out there.
I love pansies, they are so pretty!
We are in the high deserts of Oregon (yes we have desert here :0), so I do not know what your climate is like.
Good luck!
Reply:they do not spread,but they may reseed.they will fill in.they will survive, the phlox too
I live in western North Carolina in the mountains.
I also bought some phlox today, hoping it will survive, even though I planted it today. I assume it's pretty hardy, since it didn't die off when we had freezing weather a couple of times already. Suggestions? Advice?
Question about planting pansies. See details below:?
I have a few answers to your many questions about pansies. They will not spread but rather develop larger plants reducing the space between plants. They are generally planted 8-9 inches from center of plant to center of plant. They are one of the most reliable winter plants for taking extremes in temperatures and still blooming. However, this is one of the fascinating things about pansies, they bloom on nitrogen, one of a handful of plants to do so. A lot of people will fertiliuze with blood meal,(actually animal blood) purchased at local garden centers. After planting your pansies, it would be good to mulch with a hardwood mulch or with your pine straw there in N.C. Both the phlox and the pansies are great plants, always water before a hard freeze. The moisture actually protects the roots from what is known in the trade as Dry-Freeze Kill. Happy gardening.
Reply:Pansies are cold weather plants. They can tolerate freezes. They don't "spread" but will become full, compact plants given time. They are heavy feeders, you can MiracleGro them weekly. Dead head for more blooms. Or let them go to seed for you to collect. In a couple of months one pansy can grow to be 8-10" tall, bushing to 12" in diameter.
They will root in water and reseed themselves. Lovely light scent too.
Reply:If you have several colors, instead of mixing them up plant 2 or 3 of the same color next to each other. When they grow towards each other they will look more like one big plant of the same color :-)
I've always heard they can survive without cover down to 25 degrees. To be safe, mulch around them, water before a freeze and throw a cover over them during the freeze time.
Reply:Hello,
My pansies last year I would take off the developed seed pod and throw the seeds back into where the pansies were planted and I had so many pansies!!
We took them broke the roots up and planted them into the ground. In the ground they stayed nice with there flowers well into freezing. I have not been out there to check on them, but they were the longest lasting flower we had out there.
I love pansies, they are so pretty!
We are in the high deserts of Oregon (yes we have desert here :0), so I do not know what your climate is like.
Good luck!
Reply:they do not spread,but they may reseed.they will fill in.they will survive, the phlox too
What is a good flowering plant to grow on a rocky hill?
I have a very steep hill behind my house that consists of mostly thin, rocky soil. I would prefer to plant something that is pretty (flowers?) that is hardy and covers the ground well. I am thinking about a variety of phlox or possibly ivy. Thre is absolutely no shade in this area. I need to do something with this slope. It's ugly and a pain to tend. I was hoping to plant something decent and then weed wack it a couple times a year. Thanks for your feedback.
What is a good flowering plant to grow on a rocky hill?
I would recommend Crown Vetch. It is hardy and easy to grow. It bears lavendar flowers. I have included pics of it from a distance and a close up of the blossom.
Crown Vetch pic:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Close up:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Reply:www.Highcountrygardens.com
they have many ideas for you
Reply:Native shrubs, grasses and flowers are perfect for a place like this!!! More and more ppl are turning to natives because they are sturdy. You can get very specific plants for specific places and this is where they naturally grow so they survive. There are native phlox but they do not spread near as much as the cultivated ones.
Reply:?Crown vetch? It is a nightmare plant, you'll certainly never be rid of it.
You gave no hint of where you live. How about some lupins and cleome, milkweed and St. Johnswort? That will give different heights, blooming seasons, and colors.
Reply:Often highway departments will plant crownvetch on hillsides because it is flowering and perennial and will grow anywhere. It would love the sun. I think the only problem with it is if you really need to contain it as it can be somewhat invasive - but no more so than ivy.
What is a good flowering plant to grow on a rocky hill?
I would recommend Crown Vetch. It is hardy and easy to grow. It bears lavendar flowers. I have included pics of it from a distance and a close up of the blossom.
Crown Vetch pic:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Close up:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Reply:www.Highcountrygardens.com
they have many ideas for you
Reply:Native shrubs, grasses and flowers are perfect for a place like this!!! More and more ppl are turning to natives because they are sturdy. You can get very specific plants for specific places and this is where they naturally grow so they survive. There are native phlox but they do not spread near as much as the cultivated ones.
Reply:?Crown vetch? It is a nightmare plant, you'll certainly never be rid of it.
You gave no hint of where you live. How about some lupins and cleome, milkweed and St. Johnswort? That will give different heights, blooming seasons, and colors.
Reply:Often highway departments will plant crownvetch on hillsides because it is flowering and perennial and will grow anywhere. It would love the sun. I think the only problem with it is if you really need to contain it as it can be somewhat invasive - but no more so than ivy.
What type of ground cover is this?
Hi~I've noticed in the past couple of weeks that I have some type of ground cover growing in my flower bed. I'm not sure what it is. At first I thought it was clover, but it is more compact like phlox. I have phlox in another area but the leaves on the mysterious ground cover are more rounded and not "spiky" like phlox. I almost dug it up but I'm curious as to whether or not it will produce blooms. Anyone have any idea or photos of what this might be? Thanks!
What type of ground cover is this?
We can eliminate pachysandra. The leaves look more like spearmint with points on the ends.
See Photo
http://www.flickr.com/photos/writergoofn...
It's not honeysuckle
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrhsfan/263...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/betameme/17...
It's not Creeping Jenny
http://www.flickr.com/photos/unendingwon...
***************MAYBE THIS***************
White clover, found throughout the United States, is a shallow rooted winter perennial legume which ********((((spreads by stolons or above ground*** ******runners.)))
Your plant is definitely a runner.
Does it bloom?
http://www.weedalert.com/weed_pages/wa_w...
I've looked at every ground cover online and this is the closestI could find.
Reply:It could be something the previous owner planted. If you are able to contact the previous owner you could ask them if they planted something in that spot.
Reply:Can't quite tell the size from your photo, but it might be pachysandra. Here are some pics for comparison:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Reply:No clue; can you take a photo and post it? We might be able to give you a better idea then.
EDIT: Thanks for posting the photo. I'm sorry to say I've never seen anything close. Luckily it's a nice looking plant.
Reply:There's around seventy different varieties of phlox. The leaf shapes vary some are almost completely round. Best to wait until they flower, which they will do regardless of what they are. Then take a coule of samples to a garden cebtre or take a photo and post here.
Reply:The leaves appear to be on a vine...could it be honeysuckle?
I've never seen phlox on a vine but then, there are a lot of things I haven't seen :)
Reply:very common weed here in SC...can't name it. easy to pull
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What type of ground cover is this?
We can eliminate pachysandra. The leaves look more like spearmint with points on the ends.
See Photo
http://www.flickr.com/photos/writergoofn...
It's not honeysuckle
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrhsfan/263...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/betameme/17...
It's not Creeping Jenny
http://www.flickr.com/photos/unendingwon...
***************MAYBE THIS***************
White clover, found throughout the United States, is a shallow rooted winter perennial legume which ********((((spreads by stolons or above ground*** ******runners.)))
Your plant is definitely a runner.
Does it bloom?
http://www.weedalert.com/weed_pages/wa_w...
I've looked at every ground cover online and this is the closestI could find.
Reply:It could be something the previous owner planted. If you are able to contact the previous owner you could ask them if they planted something in that spot.
Reply:Can't quite tell the size from your photo, but it might be pachysandra. Here are some pics for comparison:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
Reply:No clue; can you take a photo and post it? We might be able to give you a better idea then.
EDIT: Thanks for posting the photo. I'm sorry to say I've never seen anything close. Luckily it's a nice looking plant.
Reply:There's around seventy different varieties of phlox. The leaf shapes vary some are almost completely round. Best to wait until they flower, which they will do regardless of what they are. Then take a coule of samples to a garden cebtre or take a photo and post here.
Reply:The leaves appear to be on a vine...could it be honeysuckle?
I've never seen phlox on a vine but then, there are a lot of things I haven't seen :)
Reply:very common weed here in SC...can't name it. easy to pull
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I'm trying to write a book! I just got started just want to know if I should continue or forget about writng.
They were coming after her, they’re yelling something out at her .Yet, she couldn’t hear them because fear had engulfed her in its dreading cloak. She was running from whom and why she didn’t know. She didn’t even know how she ended up being chased like this. She was running for days it seemed when she finally came to a halt. Not because she’d lost whoever was chasing her but because her path came to an end! Now she was facing a river and there was no way to evade her follower. She took one more glance and found herself facing her enemy. It was a woman on a gelding. The woman’s golden hair glided down her back reaching her mare’s mane. Her eyes were and emerald green and were now gleaming. She had a smile on her thin lips, not a comforting smile but that of a beast when it has finally reached its prey. The woman charged her gelding and was gaining at her. She had nowhere else to run but to the stinging cold water in the river behind her. She inhaled for one last time before diving into the river.
Phlox woke up gasping for air. She could almost taste river water in her mouth. She pulled herself up and sat cross legged on her bed. Her breath came hard and her heart was pounding like a hammer. She checked the time in her alarm clock; it was 1:30 am. But she knew she was safe. Safe from the woman and safe from the tugging river currents. “Home sweet home” phlox whispered to herself. She closed her eyes and dived back onto her bed.
I'm trying to write a book! I just got started just want to know if I should continue or forget about writng.
You need to find different ways to structure your sentences. Too many of them begin with She. There are other ways to structure a sentence than beginning with the subject.
Also you change tenses. Your first sentence alone goes from past tense to present tense. Pick one and stick with it. And you need a MUCH stronger first sentence to attract readers and drag them into the story. What you have now is very cliche and ordinary. Add more excitement.
Lastly. Show not tell. Find more ways to add action and showing to the story instead of just telling. And I'm not crazy about the name Phlox either. Pax-C
Reply:It needs a little work, but it's really good! I love the concept, and the characters are really interesting.
If you have interest in continuing, go for it! But don't bother if that's not what you want to do; it could very well just work by itself as a short story.
Good luck!
Reply:if you enjoy writing. then why would you stop? is your goal to get published? its very difficult but not impossible. i could give you tips ive just gotten into trying to get my work published. from what i read seemed a little lord of the ringsish. which there is a big market for. good luck.
Reply:You shouldn't forget about writing. But you should practice. Since you did not ask for help regarding your writing I will not comment further. It's a good start.
Reply:It's good but I wouldn't use the name Phlox...
Reply:There's some work to be done with grammar and punctuation, but if you're heart's not into writing, then you shouldn't consider a career at it. Generally publishing requires editing and re-editing, and that's only if the publisher likes your stuff. Even the big authors get rejections.
The story you wrote is intriguing but needs work. If you're young and just starting out, keep at it.
Reply:I agree with Mike, if you enjoy writing carry on but be warned it can be a lonely pastime and it will take you over. If you intend to write for publication research your intended market and try to be original, no one likes a copy cat. Watch the flow of your words make it easy to read, try reading what you have written out loud as if you were telling the story.
Hope this helps.... good Luck!
Reply:hmm. needs work, and i agree about the name phlox. also, you definitely need to get a book on grammar, sentence structure, etc. or take a refresher course, or get an editor. basic story line is interesting but you need a couple of other facets to make it more interesting. my favorite part is how the horse changes sexes midway thru your story,(and while not even unsetting its rider!!) and then, back again! a gelding is a castrated male horse, and a mare is a female horse, over the age of three. one of the most important aspects of writing is to do your reserarch. hope i helped and good luck
Reply:Definitely continue and don't give up just yet! Great writing comes with practice and you are already partway there. Your story has potential and enthusiasm to write is often the key. Once you get your ideas down on paper they can be edited later. Just one thing though:
As a reader we need to feel how characters feel, otherwise the writing comes across as emotionally detached.
Bolster your writing with description, say how the character is feeling, not just what she is thinking. You do this really well in the last paragraph, but not in the heat of the chase - is her chest tight? is she leaping over things in haste to get away? is she feeling the snort of the horse's breath hot against her neck? Just don't forget that often the very first paragraph needs to pull the reader in. Once you make the chase in her dream more vivid, you will set the standard for the rest of your story, which I am sure will be wonderful.
Phlox woke up gasping for air. She could almost taste river water in her mouth. She pulled herself up and sat cross legged on her bed. Her breath came hard and her heart was pounding like a hammer. She checked the time in her alarm clock; it was 1:30 am. But she knew she was safe. Safe from the woman and safe from the tugging river currents. “Home sweet home” phlox whispered to herself. She closed her eyes and dived back onto her bed.
I'm trying to write a book! I just got started just want to know if I should continue or forget about writng.
You need to find different ways to structure your sentences. Too many of them begin with She. There are other ways to structure a sentence than beginning with the subject.
Also you change tenses. Your first sentence alone goes from past tense to present tense. Pick one and stick with it. And you need a MUCH stronger first sentence to attract readers and drag them into the story. What you have now is very cliche and ordinary. Add more excitement.
Lastly. Show not tell. Find more ways to add action and showing to the story instead of just telling. And I'm not crazy about the name Phlox either. Pax-C
Reply:It needs a little work, but it's really good! I love the concept, and the characters are really interesting.
If you have interest in continuing, go for it! But don't bother if that's not what you want to do; it could very well just work by itself as a short story.
Good luck!
Reply:if you enjoy writing. then why would you stop? is your goal to get published? its very difficult but not impossible. i could give you tips ive just gotten into trying to get my work published. from what i read seemed a little lord of the ringsish. which there is a big market for. good luck.
Reply:You shouldn't forget about writing. But you should practice. Since you did not ask for help regarding your writing I will not comment further. It's a good start.
Reply:It's good but I wouldn't use the name Phlox...
Reply:There's some work to be done with grammar and punctuation, but if you're heart's not into writing, then you shouldn't consider a career at it. Generally publishing requires editing and re-editing, and that's only if the publisher likes your stuff. Even the big authors get rejections.
The story you wrote is intriguing but needs work. If you're young and just starting out, keep at it.
Reply:I agree with Mike, if you enjoy writing carry on but be warned it can be a lonely pastime and it will take you over. If you intend to write for publication research your intended market and try to be original, no one likes a copy cat. Watch the flow of your words make it easy to read, try reading what you have written out loud as if you were telling the story.
Hope this helps.... good Luck!
Reply:hmm. needs work, and i agree about the name phlox. also, you definitely need to get a book on grammar, sentence structure, etc. or take a refresher course, or get an editor. basic story line is interesting but you need a couple of other facets to make it more interesting. my favorite part is how the horse changes sexes midway thru your story,(and while not even unsetting its rider!!) and then, back again! a gelding is a castrated male horse, and a mare is a female horse, over the age of three. one of the most important aspects of writing is to do your reserarch. hope i helped and good luck
Reply:Definitely continue and don't give up just yet! Great writing comes with practice and you are already partway there. Your story has potential and enthusiasm to write is often the key. Once you get your ideas down on paper they can be edited later. Just one thing though:
As a reader we need to feel how characters feel, otherwise the writing comes across as emotionally detached.
Bolster your writing with description, say how the character is feeling, not just what she is thinking. You do this really well in the last paragraph, but not in the heat of the chase - is her chest tight? is she leaping over things in haste to get away? is she feeling the snort of the horse's breath hot against her neck? Just don't forget that often the very first paragraph needs to pull the reader in. Once you make the chase in her dream more vivid, you will set the standard for the rest of your story, which I am sure will be wonderful.
Unidentified plants in wildflower garden?
No photo, sorry. There are lots of these plants in an overgrown wildflower garden and not currently in bloom.
Herbaceous perennial. Root: rhizome. Stem: 2-3', unbranched, green, non-glossy, round, tiny white hairs. Leaves: simple, elliptical, alternate, 2.5 - 3.0 long by %26lt;.5", shallow notches.
It's not in bloom now, but the plant looks like a bit like garden phlox in shape, except that it does not have a tap root and the leaves are slightly notched and alternate instead of opposite, with more parallel than branched veins. Leaves are also a bit narrower than garden phlox.
I don't know what the blooms look like and there are no buds right now or any old flower or seed pods.
I'm in Minnesota, and am trying to clean up this old wildflower garden, but don't want to pull something that would flower later.
TIA for your help.
Unidentified plants in wildflower garden?
Could it be goldenrod? Without a picture it's hard to know, but it could also be a wildflower, some people even plant weeds in their gardens, so it's hard to know if it is a weed or will flower.
Reply:Although you give a good description of the plant I'm not able to identify it. If it is everywhere in the garden you should remove any that crowds other plants you wish to keep. Rhizomes spread quite readily, so removing some could prevent the garden from being overwhelmed next year.
Besides, a wildflower garden is ever changing. One perrennial may last several years, or die after three. Seed may not come up for several years until conditions are right. At some point your wildflowers will look less charming and more weedy, but you need to wait till the seed has set and dried before you pull and shake out annual seeds. Being as how your growing season is ? May - Oct you should wait till frost to cut back perrennials, just as you would with nursery plants.
Remember that wildflowers are sold by region so what's in your garden may include plants not native to, but still growable in your area. Below is a link, hopefully, to help identify the plant after it has flowered. You should save it to Favorites or Bookmarks until you need it.
Herbaceous perennial. Root: rhizome. Stem: 2-3', unbranched, green, non-glossy, round, tiny white hairs. Leaves: simple, elliptical, alternate, 2.5 - 3.0 long by %26lt;.5", shallow notches.
It's not in bloom now, but the plant looks like a bit like garden phlox in shape, except that it does not have a tap root and the leaves are slightly notched and alternate instead of opposite, with more parallel than branched veins. Leaves are also a bit narrower than garden phlox.
I don't know what the blooms look like and there are no buds right now or any old flower or seed pods.
I'm in Minnesota, and am trying to clean up this old wildflower garden, but don't want to pull something that would flower later.
TIA for your help.
Unidentified plants in wildflower garden?
Could it be goldenrod? Without a picture it's hard to know, but it could also be a wildflower, some people even plant weeds in their gardens, so it's hard to know if it is a weed or will flower.
Reply:Although you give a good description of the plant I'm not able to identify it. If it is everywhere in the garden you should remove any that crowds other plants you wish to keep. Rhizomes spread quite readily, so removing some could prevent the garden from being overwhelmed next year.
Besides, a wildflower garden is ever changing. One perrennial may last several years, or die after three. Seed may not come up for several years until conditions are right. At some point your wildflowers will look less charming and more weedy, but you need to wait till the seed has set and dried before you pull and shake out annual seeds. Being as how your growing season is ? May - Oct you should wait till frost to cut back perrennials, just as you would with nursery plants.
Remember that wildflowers are sold by region so what's in your garden may include plants not native to, but still growable in your area. Below is a link, hopefully, to help identify the plant after it has flowered. You should save it to Favorites or Bookmarks until you need it.
For all Trekkers and Trekkies??
Here is my ultimate quiz.Just find the coMmon bOnd and then guess the missing link in the chain:
1)Spock,Worf,Seven,Phlox
2.)Chekov,Molly,Naomi, Hoshi
3.) Romulans, Continium, Cardassians, Vidians
4.)Spock, Yar, Jadzia, Edwards
5.)Farpoint, Klaestron,Klanto, Klingon Homeworld
GOOD LUCK!
For all Trekkers and Trekkies??
1. First of species in Starfleet. Nog.
2. Youngest on ship/space station??? Molly's baby brother?3. Alien species regulars? ?
4. Killed in the line of duty. Suder, maybe Kes.
5. First Mission? Bajor?
Reply:huh?
Reply:1) - First in Starfleet of Species
2) - Foreign bridge crew
3) - Federation Enemies
4) - Killed In Duty
5) - First Missions?
Reply:1: tactical officers 2: helmsman 3: enemies 4:science officers 5: officers of the federation starfleet who were from enemy worlds
1)Spock,Worf,Seven,Phlox
2.)Chekov,Molly,Naomi, Hoshi
3.) Romulans, Continium, Cardassians, Vidians
4.)Spock, Yar, Jadzia, Edwards
5.)Farpoint, Klaestron,Klanto, Klingon Homeworld
GOOD LUCK!
For all Trekkers and Trekkies??
1. First of species in Starfleet. Nog.
2. Youngest on ship/space station??? Molly's baby brother?3. Alien species regulars? ?
4. Killed in the line of duty. Suder, maybe Kes.
5. First Mission? Bajor?
Reply:huh?
Reply:1) - First in Starfleet of Species
2) - Foreign bridge crew
3) - Federation Enemies
4) - Killed In Duty
5) - First Missions?
Reply:1: tactical officers 2: helmsman 3: enemies 4:science officers 5: officers of the federation starfleet who were from enemy worlds
Weed control help, please!?
I've got some phlox that my kids gave me for Mother's Day a few years ago. I put down Preen before things start to grow in the spring, but it seems like before long I've got this lush carpet of phlox with the stalks of what appear to be grass popping through. My husband says that they're a type of weed that if you pull them out, even if you try to keep all the roots attached and get it all, there will still be some left behind that will procreate like mad. I've tried squirting liquid weed killers on the individual weed stalks, without getting the phlox, but the problem persists.
Anything I can do, either preventative or otherwise? I'd hate to do something too dramatic, like getting rid of everything and starting over, since the kids gave me the plants. But so many grass-like weed spears shoot up about the phlox that it looks bad.
Thanks for the help!
FYI, we live in the Midwest.
Weed control help, please!?
you have nut sedge it sounds like.
there is a product called sedgehammer that will kill it that won't hurt the phlox.
keep using the preen for the other weed control too though
Reply:i had a similar problem. just persistence with hand weeding is the best. or dig out the healthiest phlox, destroy the undesirables the replant the phlox.
Reply:You did the first thing I would have suggested, a pre-emergent. Although it may not have worked on the weeds you have.
First identify the weed to apply the best option.
Look here first and see if you can find it:
http://www.weedalert.com/
Reply:If you try to use a weed killer on the phlox to kill the weeds growing with it, the likely hood of it killing the good with the bad is high due to the roots inner-locking. Pull the weeds as much as possible. Then feed the phlox as often as possible to choke out the weeds. If problem persists, use a paint brush dipped in weed killer to individually kill the weeds by just touching the blade with weed killer.
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Anything I can do, either preventative or otherwise? I'd hate to do something too dramatic, like getting rid of everything and starting over, since the kids gave me the plants. But so many grass-like weed spears shoot up about the phlox that it looks bad.
Thanks for the help!
FYI, we live in the Midwest.
Weed control help, please!?
you have nut sedge it sounds like.
there is a product called sedgehammer that will kill it that won't hurt the phlox.
keep using the preen for the other weed control too though
Reply:i had a similar problem. just persistence with hand weeding is the best. or dig out the healthiest phlox, destroy the undesirables the replant the phlox.
Reply:You did the first thing I would have suggested, a pre-emergent. Although it may not have worked on the weeds you have.
First identify the weed to apply the best option.
Look here first and see if you can find it:
http://www.weedalert.com/
Reply:If you try to use a weed killer on the phlox to kill the weeds growing with it, the likely hood of it killing the good with the bad is high due to the roots inner-locking. Pull the weeds as much as possible. Then feed the phlox as often as possible to choke out the weeds. If problem persists, use a paint brush dipped in weed killer to individually kill the weeds by just touching the blade with weed killer.
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Bermuda grass killer?
I have small pond with fish and surrounding the pond I have a flower bed. My problem is Bermuda grass has taken over and I have gotten rid of 70%. I thinking of trying a product call "Over The Top" by Fertilome. Will "Over The Top" kill my Dwarf Phlox??? I also have Dwarf Mondo (Ophiopogon japonicus). The grass is all in my Dwarf Phlox and Can't be pulled out because its tangled all in the roots of the Phlox. Can I use "Over The Top" directly on the Phlox??? And will it kill my Mondo??? I plan to treat the areas and then mulch heavy hopefully keeping any chemical from running off in the pond. Should I not use "Over The Top" near the pond??? How long after treament will it not be threat for runoff???
Bermuda grass killer?
any weedkiller will damage your pond life. Be careful.
Reply:I've used "Over the Top" before. On the back of the bottle is a list of plants it will harm. Just read up.
Now I'll give you some sage advice my late father gave me about bermuda grass... You know what they say to people who have bermuda invading their yard? Learn to love Bermuda. I wish you luck...
Reply:i have never ued over the top but i do use msma crabgrass killer (also kills bermuda grass), as well as many other problem weeds. Runoff will not damage your pond, but have to keep kids and small pets away for 24 hours.
Bermuda grass killer?
any weedkiller will damage your pond life. Be careful.
Reply:I've used "Over the Top" before. On the back of the bottle is a list of plants it will harm. Just read up.
Now I'll give you some sage advice my late father gave me about bermuda grass... You know what they say to people who have bermuda invading their yard? Learn to love Bermuda. I wish you luck...
Reply:i have never ued over the top but i do use msma crabgrass killer (also kills bermuda grass), as well as many other problem weeds. Runoff will not damage your pond, but have to keep kids and small pets away for 24 hours.
Who's your favorite "Star Trek: Enterprise" character?
Dr. Phlox gets my vote.
Who's your favorite "Star Trek: Enterprise" character?
Trip :)
Reply:they all sucked-the vulcan girl was a poor ripoff of Seven even.
Reply:Jolene Blalock Commander
T'Pol
lol i love her in those dresses
she looks hmmm hot
Who's your favorite "Star Trek: Enterprise" character?
Trip :)
Reply:they all sucked-the vulcan girl was a poor ripoff of Seven even.
Reply:Jolene Blalock Commander
T'Pol
lol i love her in those dresses
she looks hmmm hot
I need your help?
What are the definitions of these words:
Forest
Woods
Riparian
Trillium
Ironwood
Phlox
*I need to know within an hour! Please Help!
I need your help?
HAHA! You actually have to do your whetstone this week!
Reply:look on dictionary.com and copy the perfect deffintion thwy give u
Reply:check out dictionary.com
Reply:google the definitions.
Forest
Woods
Riparian
Trillium
Ironwood
Phlox
*I need to know within an hour! Please Help!
I need your help?
HAHA! You actually have to do your whetstone this week!
Reply:look on dictionary.com and copy the perfect deffintion thwy give u
Reply:check out dictionary.com
Reply:google the definitions.
Isn't this poem gorgeous? What all do you like about it?
The poplar trees sway to and fro
That through this gray old garden go
Like slender girls with nodding heads,
Whispering above the beds
Of tall tufted hollyhocks,
Of purple asters and of phlox;
Caught in the daisies' dreaming gold
Recklessly scattered wealth untold
About their slender graceful feet
Like poised dancers, lithe and fleet.
The candled flames of roses here
Gutter gold in this still air,
And clouds glide down the western sky
To watch this sun-drenched revery,
While the poplars' shining crests
Lightly brush their silvered breasts,
Dreaming not of winter snows
That soon will shake their maiden rows.
The days dream by, golden-white,
About the fountain's silver light
That lifts and shivers in the breeze
Gracefully slim as are the trees;
Then shakes down its glistered hair
by, William Faulkner
Isn't this poem gorgeous? What all do you like about it?
it is, really! the poem may look some kind of 'think about it' but its a real perfect poem to read by a person experiencing too much hardships and tired of the things he is doing. This gives light, saying that life is not that bad if he only looks to the beauty within each little creatures made with the loving hand of God.
Hope you like how I appreciate that relaxing poem!!!
Reply:im not much of a faulkner fan
no, i dont like it.
not for any negative reason, it just doesnt touch me on an emotional level
Help on my Java code
That through this gray old garden go
Like slender girls with nodding heads,
Whispering above the beds
Of tall tufted hollyhocks,
Of purple asters and of phlox;
Caught in the daisies' dreaming gold
Recklessly scattered wealth untold
About their slender graceful feet
Like poised dancers, lithe and fleet.
The candled flames of roses here
Gutter gold in this still air,
And clouds glide down the western sky
To watch this sun-drenched revery,
While the poplars' shining crests
Lightly brush their silvered breasts,
Dreaming not of winter snows
That soon will shake their maiden rows.
The days dream by, golden-white,
About the fountain's silver light
That lifts and shivers in the breeze
Gracefully slim as are the trees;
Then shakes down its glistered hair
by, William Faulkner
Isn't this poem gorgeous? What all do you like about it?
it is, really! the poem may look some kind of 'think about it' but its a real perfect poem to read by a person experiencing too much hardships and tired of the things he is doing. This gives light, saying that life is not that bad if he only looks to the beauty within each little creatures made with the loving hand of God.
Hope you like how I appreciate that relaxing poem!!!
Reply:im not much of a faulkner fan
no, i dont like it.
not for any negative reason, it just doesnt touch me on an emotional level
Help on my Java code
Wholesale seeds?
Where can I buy creeping phlox seeds?
Wholesale seeds?
here's a link to them in large wholesale lots on liquidation.
Reply:Try ebay.com or burpee.com
Wholesale seeds?
here's a link to them in large wholesale lots on liquidation.
Reply:Try ebay.com or burpee.com
Direct sow? And Wisteria Question?
What does it mean when somethings says that you can direct sow certain plants? I read you can do this with snapdragons, alyssum, pansies, phlox, and verbana. I've really been getting into gardening the past few years but I'm a still new to some of the terminology. My assumption is that you can just throw the seeds, and they will grow, but is it really that easy?
Also, on a separate note: I'm thinking of adding a pergola to our back deck, and over the side it is about 4 feet to the ground from the deck floor. I am thinking of having wisteria growing over the pergola, but I have two questions about wisteria: One, does it take several years for it to begin flowering? I'd like to see flowers at least the second year, so if so, any suggestions on other vines? I'm zone 6. And two, will it be possible to plant the wisteria in the ground on the side of the deck and have it reach all the way up to the top of the pergola? Thanks guys.
Direct sow? And Wisteria Question?
as far as direct sow, yes... rake out soil to loosen and seed...
for wisteria look for the variety wisteria macrostachya it bloom in 2 -3 years... and needs partial or full sun to flower... they grow to 40 -45 ft so yes, it will reach the top... in time... try morning glories and moonflowers in the mean time ;)
Also, on a separate note: I'm thinking of adding a pergola to our back deck, and over the side it is about 4 feet to the ground from the deck floor. I am thinking of having wisteria growing over the pergola, but I have two questions about wisteria: One, does it take several years for it to begin flowering? I'd like to see flowers at least the second year, so if so, any suggestions on other vines? I'm zone 6. And two, will it be possible to plant the wisteria in the ground on the side of the deck and have it reach all the way up to the top of the pergola? Thanks guys.
Direct sow? And Wisteria Question?
as far as direct sow, yes... rake out soil to loosen and seed...
for wisteria look for the variety wisteria macrostachya it bloom in 2 -3 years... and needs partial or full sun to flower... they grow to 40 -45 ft so yes, it will reach the top... in time... try morning glories and moonflowers in the mean time ;)
Saturday, November 14, 2009
How about his one?
Mr. Tipton, expert horticulturist,
B.A. in Botany from Bancroft,
Girls wiggle giggling past his tulips,
Aloof, unruffled by their perfume,
Sets about his planting routinely,
Petticoat rose petals, sunlit maidens,
Unruffled, he scribes in his journal,
Hair ribbons dangling lilac in color,
Briars and thorns next to bare white flesh,
He wonders if they will be careful,
Claire and Amanda in the high phlox,
Pungent beehive nectar saturated air,
Undaunted, he gathers his fork and spade,
Songbird ballad, sunset amber behind silhouettes,
Scientific mind, unflappable, hopes they return tomorrow…
How about his one?
Have you cleverly hidden a meaning in the flowers and colors that you mention here?
I think it's kind of fun. (c:
Reply:COOL
Reply:AN other wonderful one.
I really like it!
Reply:I like it. It paints a picture in time and avoids any of the typical gimmicks.
Reply:Nice poem; but don;t give up your day job.,
Reply:You seem intent upon shortcuts. Do your reading first.
Reply:Very evocative. The Secret Life of "Walter" Tipton.
Reply:I like it.
Reply:Babes and blooms. What's not to like? You good. Maybe TOO good.
Reply:Quite enjoyable...on my third read-through and still pleased. Thanks!
B.A. in Botany from Bancroft,
Girls wiggle giggling past his tulips,
Aloof, unruffled by their perfume,
Sets about his planting routinely,
Petticoat rose petals, sunlit maidens,
Unruffled, he scribes in his journal,
Hair ribbons dangling lilac in color,
Briars and thorns next to bare white flesh,
He wonders if they will be careful,
Claire and Amanda in the high phlox,
Pungent beehive nectar saturated air,
Undaunted, he gathers his fork and spade,
Songbird ballad, sunset amber behind silhouettes,
Scientific mind, unflappable, hopes they return tomorrow…
How about his one?
Have you cleverly hidden a meaning in the flowers and colors that you mention here?
I think it's kind of fun. (c:
Reply:COOL
Reply:AN other wonderful one.
I really like it!
Reply:I like it. It paints a picture in time and avoids any of the typical gimmicks.
Reply:Nice poem; but don;t give up your day job.,
Reply:You seem intent upon shortcuts. Do your reading first.
Reply:Very evocative. The Secret Life of "Walter" Tipton.
Reply:I like it.
Reply:Babes and blooms. What's not to like? You good. Maybe TOO good.
Reply:Quite enjoyable...on my third read-through and still pleased. Thanks!
Mature boxwoods turned brown ??
I have a row of mature boxwoods along my front walkway. They've always remained green year round - this Spring they're brown and brittle. They're 17 years old, well maintained and now they're pretty ugly! Has this ever happened to anyone else? I'm hoping they'll start showing some green when the weather gets better - maybe cut them back and let them start over again. Same for my phlox and HUGE Rhody. Weather wise, I'm about 20 miles south of Boston, MA. Thanks for your replies.
Mature boxwoods turned brown ??
Give them time to recover. Many plants leafed out as scheduled this spring, only to be hit by the late and prolonged frost. While there was some burning from the cold weather - what hurts worse is dryness. When a plant leafs-out, it needs more water, but the cold dry air deprived the plant of much-needed water at a critical time. As such, much of the east coast is seeing this type of browning. Leaf cover on trees such as Yoshino Cherries and other early-green trees is noticeably sparse, but they'll catch up. Plants are tougher than we give them credit for.
The good news is that it's a bit early for disease or insects, so you can most likely rule that out. However, heep an eye on it. If in about 2-3 weeks you don't start to see new budding and lush green growth, you might want to consult a local horticulture expert for an assessment.
Reply:They turned brown due to lack of water over the winter. Once it's starts raining regularly, they will put out new growth. Do not cut the back, yet. Once the new growth has begun, look to see if there are any dead places, then remove those.
Reply:My 2 yr old boxwood is a little sad looking too this year. (I'm in coastal ME.) Before you cut them back try Miracid. It works like a charm for my rhodys , andromeda, and greens up most shrubs that are a little scary. Theres a list on the back of the box of plants that can be helped. Good luck!!!
Reply:Like mine, they are probably suffering from lack of water and large temp fluctuations. Seems like spring one week then back to winter for a few days....and I'm in Texas!
They should come back.
shoe care product
Mature boxwoods turned brown ??
Give them time to recover. Many plants leafed out as scheduled this spring, only to be hit by the late and prolonged frost. While there was some burning from the cold weather - what hurts worse is dryness. When a plant leafs-out, it needs more water, but the cold dry air deprived the plant of much-needed water at a critical time. As such, much of the east coast is seeing this type of browning. Leaf cover on trees such as Yoshino Cherries and other early-green trees is noticeably sparse, but they'll catch up. Plants are tougher than we give them credit for.
The good news is that it's a bit early for disease or insects, so you can most likely rule that out. However, heep an eye on it. If in about 2-3 weeks you don't start to see new budding and lush green growth, you might want to consult a local horticulture expert for an assessment.
Reply:They turned brown due to lack of water over the winter. Once it's starts raining regularly, they will put out new growth. Do not cut the back, yet. Once the new growth has begun, look to see if there are any dead places, then remove those.
Reply:My 2 yr old boxwood is a little sad looking too this year. (I'm in coastal ME.) Before you cut them back try Miracid. It works like a charm for my rhodys , andromeda, and greens up most shrubs that are a little scary. Theres a list on the back of the box of plants that can be helped. Good luck!!!
Reply:Like mine, they are probably suffering from lack of water and large temp fluctuations. Seems like spring one week then back to winter for a few days....and I'm in Texas!
They should come back.
shoe care product
What's your favorite perennial?
I hate my phlox and I want to replace them with something more attractive and easier to care for. I live in So. IN
What's your favorite perennial?
Daylilies....so many colors and even when not blooming you have attractive green foliage. With Stella D'Ora lilies you will have continual blooms all summer.
I love my beebalm (monarda) It's super easy to grow and comes in reds, pinks, white or lavenders. Plus butterflies and hummingbirds love them too.
Cone Flowers...now comes in great colors besides the original pink. Plant these and you will never have to worry about them again...except to dig up slips for your friends.
Russian Sage...love the silver gray foliage and the little purple flowers are great for attracting butterflies. I also dry the stems and flowers.
my newest passion is Ornamental Grass.....I have been really getting into adding grasses to my yard and love the look.
Go to your local green house in next couple weeks and walk thru and see what's blooming and don't be afraid to ask the workers questions on what grows best in your area.A lot of times they will hand out plant catalogs or reference catalogs for customers at no cost.
Good luck!!
Reply:all perennials are my favorite. . you did not say what kind of light the spot gets. . .
Reply:i like hosta. there are many different varieties, but all are grown primarily for the leaves. They do get very tall flower stalks, but the flowers aren't big and showy. They come back bigger every year. do well in shady areas, but will also grow in sun.
Reply:Lavender! Specifically the provence variety. It's hardy and doesn't need too much care. Don't cut it all the way back in the winter. It looks good most of the year and smells nice.
Reply:I love cannas. These are bulbs and if you live in a place that is north, dont worry. just wait for the first freez when the plant looks dead. they cut the leaves off the plant all the way to the botton. them take the bulb of the plant and store it inside till spring.
also keep the canna in full sun so they get lots of flowers.
also cannas LOVE water and plant food.
here is a photo of a canna
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showima...
Reply:Send for a couple of free gardening catelogs. They are filled with flowers and shrubs pictures and how to take care of them. Here are just a couple, but there are hundreds more:
http://www.parkseed.com
http://www.burpee.com
Roses:
http://jacksonandperkins.com
Reply:lillies are always nice and easy to grow.you go buy the bulbs in the store plant them in the ground and watch them grow.this is the time of year to be planting them so hurry and get your bulbs.they are beautiful.they look like the first guys picture only all different colors they come in his was a lilly also just a different type.
Reply:daisies
nippon daise
ox eye daisy
shasta daisy
sheffeild daisy
What's your favorite perennial?
Daylilies....so many colors and even when not blooming you have attractive green foliage. With Stella D'Ora lilies you will have continual blooms all summer.
I love my beebalm (monarda) It's super easy to grow and comes in reds, pinks, white or lavenders. Plus butterflies and hummingbirds love them too.
Cone Flowers...now comes in great colors besides the original pink. Plant these and you will never have to worry about them again...except to dig up slips for your friends.
Russian Sage...love the silver gray foliage and the little purple flowers are great for attracting butterflies. I also dry the stems and flowers.
my newest passion is Ornamental Grass.....I have been really getting into adding grasses to my yard and love the look.
Go to your local green house in next couple weeks and walk thru and see what's blooming and don't be afraid to ask the workers questions on what grows best in your area.A lot of times they will hand out plant catalogs or reference catalogs for customers at no cost.
Good luck!!
Reply:all perennials are my favorite. . you did not say what kind of light the spot gets. . .
Reply:i like hosta. there are many different varieties, but all are grown primarily for the leaves. They do get very tall flower stalks, but the flowers aren't big and showy. They come back bigger every year. do well in shady areas, but will also grow in sun.
Reply:Lavender! Specifically the provence variety. It's hardy and doesn't need too much care. Don't cut it all the way back in the winter. It looks good most of the year and smells nice.
Reply:I love cannas. These are bulbs and if you live in a place that is north, dont worry. just wait for the first freez when the plant looks dead. they cut the leaves off the plant all the way to the botton. them take the bulb of the plant and store it inside till spring.
also keep the canna in full sun so they get lots of flowers.
also cannas LOVE water and plant food.
here is a photo of a canna
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showima...
Reply:Send for a couple of free gardening catelogs. They are filled with flowers and shrubs pictures and how to take care of them. Here are just a couple, but there are hundreds more:
http://www.parkseed.com
http://www.burpee.com
Roses:
http://jacksonandperkins.com
Reply:lillies are always nice and easy to grow.you go buy the bulbs in the store plant them in the ground and watch them grow.this is the time of year to be planting them so hurry and get your bulbs.they are beautiful.they look like the first guys picture only all different colors they come in his was a lilly also just a different type.
Reply:daisies
nippon daise
ox eye daisy
shasta daisy
sheffeild daisy
Have you ever seen the magic Hummingbird Moth?
This was the most pulchritudinous bug I have ever seen in my life. I never heard nor seen this moth before. I was walking in a park (Connecticut) in the middle of the day and went over to admire some wild phlox. Then I thought I saw a hummingbird which is a rare sight so I watched it a good while and realized the thing had antennas! It's an insect! At first I thought it was wee little alien. Then I thought it was some sort of bee or hornet. It was just like a Hummingbird, almost the size of one, if flew just like one and unlike every other moth I have ever seen was a seemingly inteligent and superb flier. It went from flower to flower still in flight sucking up the nectar. How such a creature could get enough norishment from these minuscule flowers is beyond me.It was truely magical. I went home and looked up Hummingbird Moth and there she was. I knew it could not be called anything else. Have you ever seen one?
Have you ever seen the magic Hummingbird Moth?
Many times. they are quite amazing. And, there are experienced bird watchers who have been fooled by one of them hovering over a garden of flowers.
Have you ever seen the magic Hummingbird Moth?
Many times. they are quite amazing. And, there are experienced bird watchers who have been fooled by one of them hovering over a garden of flowers.
Plants after a frost?
We had two nights of frost after beautiful weather. All the plants in our area are limp now. What can I do to keep mine alive, and possibly blooming this year?
I have crape myrtles, japanese maple, cherry tree, phlox, and other stuff I don't know the names of.
Plants after a frost?
They should pop back if the weather has warmed up again. I would keep an eye on them and the weather forcast. If it calls to get cold again, I would cover them up with some tarp. Good Luck!
I have crape myrtles, japanese maple, cherry tree, phlox, and other stuff I don't know the names of.
Plants after a frost?
They should pop back if the weather has warmed up again. I would keep an eye on them and the weather forcast. If it calls to get cold again, I would cover them up with some tarp. Good Luck!
Can anyone help me identify these bugs\beetles I found in my garden?
I found them today in one of my gardens. They are approx. 1\4 inch in length. The seem to hang out several together as well as individuals on their own. They are mostly at the tops of my plants (rudbeckia, phlox, astible, bee balm) so they don't seem to be attracted to a particular plant. My local garden centre couldn't help out and I've looked in all my gardening books as well as online, but no luck. I don't know if they are beneficial or not. Can you help my identify these critters?
Sincerely,
Kay
Can anyone help me identify these bugs\beetles I found in my garden?
Could be lots and lots of things. A detailed description (colors, patterns, smooth/shiny/rough/dull, big/small head, long/short/feathery antennae, etc.) or a photo link would be necessary.
Reply:Perhaps if you try giving a slightly more detailed description than '1/4" in length and hang out in groups or individually in a variety of flowering plants', someone might be able to help.
Reply:if you start getting holes in the leaves or brown spots then you know they are eating your plant and killing it. i would get a bug spray and get rid of them
Reply:What color or colors are they? There's a beetle called a cockchaffer (honestly!). Check that out. Do fireflies live around you? That's another possibility. Really, more information is needed. Good luck.
Loosing eyelid crease.
Sincerely,
Kay
Can anyone help me identify these bugs\beetles I found in my garden?
Could be lots and lots of things. A detailed description (colors, patterns, smooth/shiny/rough/dull, big/small head, long/short/feathery antennae, etc.) or a photo link would be necessary.
Reply:Perhaps if you try giving a slightly more detailed description than '1/4" in length and hang out in groups or individually in a variety of flowering plants', someone might be able to help.
Reply:if you start getting holes in the leaves or brown spots then you know they are eating your plant and killing it. i would get a bug spray and get rid of them
Reply:What color or colors are they? There's a beetle called a cockchaffer (honestly!). Check that out. Do fireflies live around you? That's another possibility. Really, more information is needed. Good luck.
Loosing eyelid crease.
Gardens for all year long?
Hi. I am looking to plant a garden, so that it has flowers in the spring, summer and fall. I bought some tulips, phlox, anemones, azelas, impatiens etc in the spring, I have some late spring/early summer tulips, tiger lilies, coreopsis, black eyed susans, roses, dahlias, etc for summer. I have mums and purple empress grass for the fall. What else do I need? I am looking for a site that can give me some good ideas about arranging flowers and plant ideas that I can use to make my gradens pretty all year long. Please help. Thanks.
Gardens for all year long?
I call my technique layering and I'm still still learning how mine works. On the surface it seems an easy task, get some good books and catalogs, look up some flowers of various height with overlapping and sequential bloom times and that's that, right ? Wrong !! I've tried to get those plants to read the books and catalogs many times with no response. I know I've done everything right when my garden is mature and it takes on a will of it's own. It then begins morphing daily into something new every year with very little effort on my part. If you're ever walking by my house, stop and I will explain more about it. After a flower bed matures and reaches an equilibrium, most people try to maintain this static stage for years. I get bored and start all over again with a different plan about every 3-5 yrs. For me it's similar to rearranging the living room. I try to use three or four of the largest shrubs or perennials to visually give a core for the new garden. Grow a lot of of annuals in one and two gallon pots. As the seasons change, you can use these pots as color and fillers before or after another plant flowers. Just tuck a few here and there or group them all to together for an instant garden on a lark. RScott
Reply:you can add snowdrops that bloom in late winter and early spring. but, I live in zone 5a... might be different for you.
Gardens for all year long?
I call my technique layering and I'm still still learning how mine works. On the surface it seems an easy task, get some good books and catalogs, look up some flowers of various height with overlapping and sequential bloom times and that's that, right ? Wrong !! I've tried to get those plants to read the books and catalogs many times with no response. I know I've done everything right when my garden is mature and it takes on a will of it's own. It then begins morphing daily into something new every year with very little effort on my part. If you're ever walking by my house, stop and I will explain more about it. After a flower bed matures and reaches an equilibrium, most people try to maintain this static stage for years. I get bored and start all over again with a different plan about every 3-5 yrs. For me it's similar to rearranging the living room. I try to use three or four of the largest shrubs or perennials to visually give a core for the new garden. Grow a lot of of annuals in one and two gallon pots. As the seasons change, you can use these pots as color and fillers before or after another plant flowers. Just tuck a few here and there or group them all to together for an instant garden on a lark. RScott
Reply:you can add snowdrops that bloom in late winter and early spring. but, I live in zone 5a... might be different for you.
Are most perennials planted by seed from packets or pots from nurseries?
which ones are or arent?
you know, candy tuft, astilbe, phlox, goats beard, etc.
Are most perennials planted by seed from packets or pots from nurseries?
You can do either. I find it far more satisfying to grow a plant from seed, as you see it growing, its various stages of development and eventual flowering. You kind of feel like a mother watching its baby grow! However, if you grow perennials from seed, generally you have to wait until the following year before they flower. It's also much cheaper to do it that way. You will get instant results if you plant from pots, bigger, bushier plants which flower much sooner and you get instant impact. I think the best thing to do (personally) is to have a mixture of both - plant some from pots and grow some from seed. You will probably have too many plants when you grow from seed, but you can give any you don't want to friends or relatives.
Reply:This may well break modern social etiquette so please bare this in mind. Take a few of you favourite plant shoots, or cuttings and place in tiny pots. Go for a walk around the area where you live. If you see a plant that you like in someone else's garden and it is well established, knock on their door and ask them if they would like to swap a cutting from their plant or shrub, for one or any of yours ?
Hopefully it will make your neighbour happy and you too. Nature uses birds and vermin to spread their plants around the natural environment. It is about time a more "intelligent" species got the idea. It will save you a fortune.
Reply:Most perennials are started by plugs,or very small plants, then places into bigger pots to get big.Usually annuals are started by seeds.
Reply:from seed
Reply:there a nursery down from me i visit alot and they start everything from seed
you know, candy tuft, astilbe, phlox, goats beard, etc.
Are most perennials planted by seed from packets or pots from nurseries?
You can do either. I find it far more satisfying to grow a plant from seed, as you see it growing, its various stages of development and eventual flowering. You kind of feel like a mother watching its baby grow! However, if you grow perennials from seed, generally you have to wait until the following year before they flower. It's also much cheaper to do it that way. You will get instant results if you plant from pots, bigger, bushier plants which flower much sooner and you get instant impact. I think the best thing to do (personally) is to have a mixture of both - plant some from pots and grow some from seed. You will probably have too many plants when you grow from seed, but you can give any you don't want to friends or relatives.
Reply:This may well break modern social etiquette so please bare this in mind. Take a few of you favourite plant shoots, or cuttings and place in tiny pots. Go for a walk around the area where you live. If you see a plant that you like in someone else's garden and it is well established, knock on their door and ask them if they would like to swap a cutting from their plant or shrub, for one or any of yours ?
Hopefully it will make your neighbour happy and you too. Nature uses birds and vermin to spread their plants around the natural environment. It is about time a more "intelligent" species got the idea. It will save you a fortune.
Reply:Most perennials are started by plugs,or very small plants, then places into bigger pots to get big.Usually annuals are started by seeds.
Reply:from seed
Reply:there a nursery down from me i visit alot and they start everything from seed
If you had to chose only 6 flowers to plant and you want them to last through Spring and Summer for Zone 6?
What would you choose for a nice color and height contrast? I prefer perinneals so I don't have to replant next year..
I love all types, from ornamental grasses, to low laying creeping phlox.. you ideas may me in my yard soon
If you had to chose only 6 flowers to plant and you want them to last through Spring and Summer for Zone 6?
Perinniels I like:
Black Eyed Susan
Moonbeam Coreopsis
Purple Coneflower
Lambs Ear (for the feel and look of the leaves, I cut back the flowers)
I'd fill in with an annual, like petunias (impatiens if it is a shady area), to ensure lots of color. White and some darker shades.
Reply:Herding Cats have some pretty good choices. I might add verbena and when it gets hot enough (June) I'd add vincas.
Reply:I like tea tree for it's red. I like Tulips, I like daisies but wife doesn't, and renuculas.
Reply:just plain old violets.like what you might find in your lawn ,daffodils, and tiger lilys,and a lily that is called a pink lady or sometimes suprize lilys and then the old tried and true irises.a nice color besides regular blue only blooms once but the blues can and usually bloom 2x's in a season.then just use a bedding plant that comes up for 2 yrs to fill in as you need to,i.e. marrigolds,snaps,pansies
I love all types, from ornamental grasses, to low laying creeping phlox.. you ideas may me in my yard soon
If you had to chose only 6 flowers to plant and you want them to last through Spring and Summer for Zone 6?
Perinniels I like:
Black Eyed Susan
Moonbeam Coreopsis
Purple Coneflower
Lambs Ear (for the feel and look of the leaves, I cut back the flowers)
I'd fill in with an annual, like petunias (impatiens if it is a shady area), to ensure lots of color. White and some darker shades.
Reply:Herding Cats have some pretty good choices. I might add verbena and when it gets hot enough (June) I'd add vincas.
Reply:I like tea tree for it's red. I like Tulips, I like daisies but wife doesn't, and renuculas.
Reply:just plain old violets.like what you might find in your lawn ,daffodils, and tiger lilys,and a lily that is called a pink lady or sometimes suprize lilys and then the old tried and true irises.a nice color besides regular blue only blooms once but the blues can and usually bloom 2x's in a season.then just use a bedding plant that comes up for 2 yrs to fill in as you need to,i.e. marrigolds,snaps,pansies
Many plants in my garden have curled, deformed, new-growth leaves - what's causing it?
it's not herbicide overspray, but it kind of looks like that. It's affecting hibiscus, obedient plant, Mexican petunia, glory bower, and sweet shrub. Not affecting daylillies, irises, fig tree, eucalyptus, herbs, phlox, ferns, azalea, or dahlias. I live in northeast Alabama.
Many plants in my garden have curled, deformed, new-growth leaves - what's causing it?
It sounds suspiciously like a virus. Possibly the "curly top virus". Check out the link below to learn more, and to better diagnose the problem, as well as find solutions.
Happy Gardening!
Reply:i dont even understand half of ur question
Reply:Molybdenum deficiency. Some plants are more susceptible to it than others.
shoe buckles
Many plants in my garden have curled, deformed, new-growth leaves - what's causing it?
It sounds suspiciously like a virus. Possibly the "curly top virus". Check out the link below to learn more, and to better diagnose the problem, as well as find solutions.
Happy Gardening!
Reply:i dont even understand half of ur question
Reply:Molybdenum deficiency. Some plants are more susceptible to it than others.
shoe buckles
I planted several flowering plants in my flower bed, but now they look droopy and almost sick?
There are several different kinds, Salvia, Foxglove, Lamb's Ear, Garden Phlox, Day Lily. I put top soil and peat humus in the flower bed and mixed it in with the existing soil. I water them every day. What else should I be doing to perk them up? I'm in Michigan. It's been pretty warm lately.
I planted several flowering plants in my flower bed, but now they look droopy and almost sick?
Hello Neighbor -I'm in Michigan too, the nights here are still a bit too cool to put plants out - I suspect your plants problem s are a combination of being put out way tooo early, and overwatering. You should have waited till after May 15th -20th (last frost date) to put store bought, and young seedlings out. in the ground. The ground should be 50 degrees.
I forgot my moonflower seedlings outside last night and they were droopy this morning too. Tonight I brought them in because we - you included - are under a frost advisory tonight. Hope you covered them w/ newspaper.
Next year, even if we have warm days, wait. Wait till *after* May 15-20th to plant your gardens. You can never trust Mother Nature!
Your plants should be ok. BTW - they don't need that much water! Maybe once a week should do. The peet and topsoil should hold the water for at least a week. Cover them with newspapers at night for the next week. Good luck!
Reply:My vote is overwatering. Once established they should only need watering in dry spells.
Try Canna. You can't over water them!
Reply:You could try some Miracle-Gro and see if that helps
Reply:It sounds like you are over watering. Is your flower bed in full sun or shade?
Reply:too much water will cause weak stems which is causing the "droopy" plants! Too much sun can also cause this! Don't be scared to move ur plants if they receive to much sun! Too much sun can do too much damage sometimes and it helps to move them sometimes!
I planted several flowering plants in my flower bed, but now they look droopy and almost sick?
Hello Neighbor -I'm in Michigan too, the nights here are still a bit too cool to put plants out - I suspect your plants problem s are a combination of being put out way tooo early, and overwatering. You should have waited till after May 15th -20th (last frost date) to put store bought, and young seedlings out. in the ground. The ground should be 50 degrees.
I forgot my moonflower seedlings outside last night and they were droopy this morning too. Tonight I brought them in because we - you included - are under a frost advisory tonight. Hope you covered them w/ newspaper.
Next year, even if we have warm days, wait. Wait till *after* May 15-20th to plant your gardens. You can never trust Mother Nature!
Your plants should be ok. BTW - they don't need that much water! Maybe once a week should do. The peet and topsoil should hold the water for at least a week. Cover them with newspapers at night for the next week. Good luck!
Reply:My vote is overwatering. Once established they should only need watering in dry spells.
Try Canna. You can't over water them!
Reply:You could try some Miracle-Gro and see if that helps
Reply:It sounds like you are over watering. Is your flower bed in full sun or shade?
Reply:too much water will cause weak stems which is causing the "droopy" plants! Too much sun can also cause this! Don't be scared to move ur plants if they receive to much sun! Too much sun can do too much damage sometimes and it helps to move them sometimes!
I have just built a new, large raised bed and have filled it with plants!?
Some of these plants I know will come back each year but there are one or two which I am unsure of!
So can anyone tell me if the following will come back please?
Nemesia (Wisely Vanilla), Phlox, Fuschia (Winston Churchill), Fuschia (Patio Princess), and Cineraria (Silver Dust)!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have just built a new, large raised bed and have filled it with plants!?
hi there.
sounds like you've got a lovely riot of colour in your new raised bed!
as far as what is annual or bienniel or perenniel....
nemesia: annual (will not come back)
phlox: perenniel (will come back) keep deadheading and prune down to the ground in the late autumn
fuschia: annual (will not come back unless you overwinter it inside the garage or potting shed) prune back and water sparingly in winter
cineraria: half hardy annual... may come back if you're in a warm enough zone
check out the links here for more info:
phlox: http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
cineraria: http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
Reply:The fushia definatly will....not too sure about the others.
Reply:It really depends on the climate zone that you live in.In mild climates some plants flourish and grow yr round.Takethat same plant and put it in a really hot climate and it will die off in the heat and have to be planted each winter
So can anyone tell me if the following will come back please?
Nemesia (Wisely Vanilla), Phlox, Fuschia (Winston Churchill), Fuschia (Patio Princess), and Cineraria (Silver Dust)!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have just built a new, large raised bed and have filled it with plants!?
hi there.
sounds like you've got a lovely riot of colour in your new raised bed!
as far as what is annual or bienniel or perenniel....
nemesia: annual (will not come back)
phlox: perenniel (will come back) keep deadheading and prune down to the ground in the late autumn
fuschia: annual (will not come back unless you overwinter it inside the garage or potting shed) prune back and water sparingly in winter
cineraria: half hardy annual... may come back if you're in a warm enough zone
check out the links here for more info:
phlox: http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
cineraria: http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
Reply:The fushia definatly will....not too sure about the others.
Reply:It really depends on the climate zone that you live in.In mild climates some plants flourish and grow yr round.Takethat same plant and put it in a really hot climate and it will die off in the heat and have to be planted each winter
How much stem to leave when pruning in the fall? Zone 6.?
I've left about 8 inches on my phlox, coreopsis, black eyed susans, should they go all the way to the ground?
How much stem to leave when pruning in the fall? Zone 6.?
i thought id be a smart *** once and mow my wifes stuped plants....the next year they came back with a passion.
i was told NOT to mow the yard after that so it was a win win deal
Reply:I cut mine all the way to ground level, one exception being ground phlox.New growth will begin from the plants crown next spring so on the plants you listed the stem left behind will have no growth,probably does not matter but I like to clean my perennial beds of all dead material.
How much stem to leave when pruning in the fall? Zone 6.?
i thought id be a smart *** once and mow my wifes stuped plants....the next year they came back with a passion.
i was told NOT to mow the yard after that so it was a win win deal
Reply:I cut mine all the way to ground level, one exception being ground phlox.New growth will begin from the plants crown next spring so on the plants you listed the stem left behind will have no growth,probably does not matter but I like to clean my perennial beds of all dead material.
Who is the best 'Star Trek' Doctor: Phlox, McCoy, Crusher, Polaski, Bashir or the hologram?
i think the emh is the best. my reasoning being he was very eclectic. he did have an advantage possessing all that past knowledge... but bashir had an advantage too and didn't do much. crusher was equally creative if not more so. the emh just proved himself invaluable as a crew member. he helped them communicate long distances and from the future. he even served as a civil rights leader for other holograms. just seems like he accomplished a lot more.
Who is the best 'Star Trek' Doctor: Phlox, McCoy, Crusher, Polaski, Bashir or the hologram?
Each character was great for their show. But for shear knowledge I would have to pick Voyager's Dr. and Phlox. I really liked McCoy, but he rarely practiced medicine. Crusher was great but she got would get side tracked by Wesley or her "drama club". I liked Polaski because it showed that an experienced medical woman counted. Bashir was just there. I really found it hard to connect with that character.
Reply:I vote for Crusher. I hate Polaski with a passion and I've never met anyone who likes her.
Reply:I personally liked Phlox the most. He had an urban witch doctor kind of way with his ethnic type cures and natural ways with bugs and insect more than the injector the hologram was so quick to solve EVERYTHING with.
McCoy was such a loudmouth grating kind of character who did little medical work
Polaski was an bitter miserable woman
Crusher was a little ditsy as a doctor I thought, no real power for someone in that position.
Bashir was a pansy and I wouldn't let him touch me
That's my vote and my opinion.
Reply:Beverly Crusher and the Dr from Voyager
Reply:tough question. I'll have to go with McCoy. He had a great personality always arguing with Spock and of course the best line in Star Trek "He's dead Jim" . On his medical practice he was very good.
Crusher I liked just cause she's so HOT! I loved TNG for that
Bashir
The EMH was good too but his knowledge was based on other medical personnel. I loved how he was sarcastic most of the time and always complaining about not being turned off and everything he was jokes.
Bashir I didn't really care for him as a doctor he was more of a wimp then anything else.
Only watched a handfull of Enterprise episode never cared for any of the cast.
Reply:If I were injured and knocked unconscious I'd definitely want to wake up to see Dr. Crusher. If she couldn't save me call in Voyager's Doctor.
Reply:McCoy wins this in a Landslide .... DeForrest Kelly
Who is the best 'Star Trek' Doctor: Phlox, McCoy, Crusher, Polaski, Bashir or the hologram?
Each character was great for their show. But for shear knowledge I would have to pick Voyager's Dr. and Phlox. I really liked McCoy, but he rarely practiced medicine. Crusher was great but she got would get side tracked by Wesley or her "drama club". I liked Polaski because it showed that an experienced medical woman counted. Bashir was just there. I really found it hard to connect with that character.
Reply:I vote for Crusher. I hate Polaski with a passion and I've never met anyone who likes her.
Reply:I personally liked Phlox the most. He had an urban witch doctor kind of way with his ethnic type cures and natural ways with bugs and insect more than the injector the hologram was so quick to solve EVERYTHING with.
McCoy was such a loudmouth grating kind of character who did little medical work
Polaski was an bitter miserable woman
Crusher was a little ditsy as a doctor I thought, no real power for someone in that position.
Bashir was a pansy and I wouldn't let him touch me
That's my vote and my opinion.
Reply:Beverly Crusher and the Dr from Voyager
Reply:tough question. I'll have to go with McCoy. He had a great personality always arguing with Spock and of course the best line in Star Trek "He's dead Jim" . On his medical practice he was very good.
Crusher I liked just cause she's so HOT! I loved TNG for that
Bashir
The EMH was good too but his knowledge was based on other medical personnel. I loved how he was sarcastic most of the time and always complaining about not being turned off and everything he was jokes.
Bashir I didn't really care for him as a doctor he was more of a wimp then anything else.
Only watched a handfull of Enterprise episode never cared for any of the cast.
Reply:If I were injured and knocked unconscious I'd definitely want to wake up to see Dr. Crusher. If she couldn't save me call in Voyager's Doctor.
Reply:McCoy wins this in a Landslide .... DeForrest Kelly
I have three rose cuttings that seem to be rooted in pots; they haven't grown; can I transplant?
They have been in the pots for about 2 months and give resistance when I pull on them; but they haven't gotten any new growth that I can see. The few leaves on them are still green, though. I am in southern middle Tennessee and I'd like to plant them in my yard but wonder if I should wait until they show new growth. Also they are small and I'm afraid the MANY wild rabbits that live in my yard will eat them as they did to my phlox transplants earlier in the summer. I have them in partial shade on my covered porch currently and water them thoroughly about every other day. Thanks!
I have three rose cuttings that seem to be rooted in pots; they haven't grown; can I transplant?
You better not plant them until April or may. because they haven't got strong enough roots yet, and they need to establish roots before you will see any new growth . and you don't want to plant them in your yard until after the risk of frost is gone
Reply:It is best to re-plant them in October, when it is cooler. I get anixous and move things around my yard all the time. I lose a lot in the summer because of the heat. I have transplanted my roses several times with no problems. Just make sure to keep them well watered and shades them for a while until they adjust.
Reply:I think you want to wait until feb or march in zone 7 in other zones I'm not sure what the time fram is.
I have three rose cuttings that seem to be rooted in pots; they haven't grown; can I transplant?
You better not plant them until April or may. because they haven't got strong enough roots yet, and they need to establish roots before you will see any new growth . and you don't want to plant them in your yard until after the risk of frost is gone
Reply:It is best to re-plant them in October, when it is cooler. I get anixous and move things around my yard all the time. I lose a lot in the summer because of the heat. I have transplanted my roses several times with no problems. Just make sure to keep them well watered and shades them for a while until they adjust.
Reply:I think you want to wait until feb or march in zone 7 in other zones I'm not sure what the time fram is.
Landscaping plant ideas for old, country-style home. Would like heath & heather plants. Where to purchase?
My home is a bright-light country blue with white accents. It's an old farmhouse that was relocated to town many years ago. The previous owners here in town had no flowers, plants or trees, so I'm starting from scratch here.
The house is a tall 2 story and harsh looking. It's very boxy and symmetrical. I'd like to soften it's appearance, attempt to downplay it's height and add some charm and curb-side appeal.
I've found that plants placed closely around the house foundation looks tacky, but the foundation itself looks tacky too.
My husband is dead set against vines. He's afraid they will damage the siding and eves of the house.
I'm not interested in modern looks particularly. They wouldn't match the style.
I'm thinking heaths and heathers, which are proving hard to locate. I also believe phlox, daisies and soft looking plants would go well. My dilema is these plants are about the same height. What are some taller plants that would match this scheme?
Landscaping plant ideas for old, country-style home. Would like heath %26amp; heather plants. Where to purchase?
You might want to consider a curvy outline to your plantings. This will help soften the lines. A curvy walkway to your door will also help. You can fool the eye by making your plantings curve without having to replace your walkway.
Check out BHG web site, I got a ton of ideas there when I re-landscaped my yard 2 yrs. ago. Home Depot had most of the plants I was looking for. Also, pick up a gardening book so you don't waste your money on plants that won't work for your climate.
Have fun!
Reply:I too like heath and heather plants, but have not ever seen any the my area Atlanta, Ga. I twould bee very useful to know where you are in the world, that way I can match the plants to the environment. If you cannot find heather or heath, lavander and rose mary are good subs., although they have blue flowers insteed of pink or white. If you do not want a formal garden, the plant in full circles and half circles, do something zig zag. As far as trees go put them on the sides
of the house in order to hide the square frame. Again it is hard to suggest what kind of trees, because I don't know where you live. Search your web for trees in your area and how tall and wide they get and how long it takes to reach a good height. There are so many flowers to mention, but seeing as your house is old I think you should check out your greenhouse growers for native flowers in your area or the web. This is a list of flowering perennials I grow on my job.
Yarrow, Hyssop, Aster, Baptisia, Canna, Plumbago, Shasta daisy, Coreopsis, Delosperma[ice plant], Dianthus,Echinacea, Joe Pie Weed, Fleabane, Spurge, Guara, Daylily, Hibiscus, Japanese Iris, Yellow Flag Iris, Siberian Iria, Torch lily, Lantana Camara{Miss Huff}, Liatris, Lobelia, Monarda, Peony,Russian Sage, Phlox, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Sedum, Solidgo, Stokesia, Veronica, Verbena, For partial shade, tings like Astilbe, Bleeding Hearts, Euphorbia, Hardy Geranium, Helleborus. Hope I gave you some ideas. Happy Planting.
Reply:I have a brown thumb, but in that style house, I see lavendar and sunflowers....just seems to go.
Reply:Hello,
You will find lots of wonderful flower garden, butterfly garden and more information on secilysgardentips.com
Best Wishes,
Secily W.
Reply:Here is a good site to shop or look around and get some ideas. I have found that through the mail orders--the plants may not grow or take years to develop into what you would want but you can go look and get some ideas and then look locally. I have found Lowes to be an ok place to buy plants or you may have other local places to shop.
http://www.directgardening.com/
The house is a tall 2 story and harsh looking. It's very boxy and symmetrical. I'd like to soften it's appearance, attempt to downplay it's height and add some charm and curb-side appeal.
I've found that plants placed closely around the house foundation looks tacky, but the foundation itself looks tacky too.
My husband is dead set against vines. He's afraid they will damage the siding and eves of the house.
I'm not interested in modern looks particularly. They wouldn't match the style.
I'm thinking heaths and heathers, which are proving hard to locate. I also believe phlox, daisies and soft looking plants would go well. My dilema is these plants are about the same height. What are some taller plants that would match this scheme?
Landscaping plant ideas for old, country-style home. Would like heath %26amp; heather plants. Where to purchase?
You might want to consider a curvy outline to your plantings. This will help soften the lines. A curvy walkway to your door will also help. You can fool the eye by making your plantings curve without having to replace your walkway.
Check out BHG web site, I got a ton of ideas there when I re-landscaped my yard 2 yrs. ago. Home Depot had most of the plants I was looking for. Also, pick up a gardening book so you don't waste your money on plants that won't work for your climate.
Have fun!
Reply:I too like heath and heather plants, but have not ever seen any the my area Atlanta, Ga. I twould bee very useful to know where you are in the world, that way I can match the plants to the environment. If you cannot find heather or heath, lavander and rose mary are good subs., although they have blue flowers insteed of pink or white. If you do not want a formal garden, the plant in full circles and half circles, do something zig zag. As far as trees go put them on the sides
of the house in order to hide the square frame. Again it is hard to suggest what kind of trees, because I don't know where you live. Search your web for trees in your area and how tall and wide they get and how long it takes to reach a good height. There are so many flowers to mention, but seeing as your house is old I think you should check out your greenhouse growers for native flowers in your area or the web. This is a list of flowering perennials I grow on my job.
Yarrow, Hyssop, Aster, Baptisia, Canna, Plumbago, Shasta daisy, Coreopsis, Delosperma[ice plant], Dianthus,Echinacea, Joe Pie Weed, Fleabane, Spurge, Guara, Daylily, Hibiscus, Japanese Iris, Yellow Flag Iris, Siberian Iria, Torch lily, Lantana Camara{Miss Huff}, Liatris, Lobelia, Monarda, Peony,Russian Sage, Phlox, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Sedum, Solidgo, Stokesia, Veronica, Verbena, For partial shade, tings like Astilbe, Bleeding Hearts, Euphorbia, Hardy Geranium, Helleborus. Hope I gave you some ideas. Happy Planting.
Reply:I have a brown thumb, but in that style house, I see lavendar and sunflowers....just seems to go.
Reply:Hello,
You will find lots of wonderful flower garden, butterfly garden and more information on secilysgardentips.com
Best Wishes,
Secily W.
Reply:Here is a good site to shop or look around and get some ideas. I have found that through the mail orders--the plants may not grow or take years to develop into what you would want but you can go look and get some ideas and then look locally. I have found Lowes to be an ok place to buy plants or you may have other local places to shop.
http://www.directgardening.com/
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
like candy tuft, achilia, yarrow, phlox, etc?
do you plant many by throwing seeds out, just like you would for zinnias??
I am new to gardening.
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
Generally speaking, perennials are very easy to grow. I wouldn't just scatter the seeds without soil preparation first though. Make sure you have the taller ones to the back of the bed, medium height to the middle and smaller ones to the front. be careful with the colour schemes. Cooler colours i.e. Whites, Blues, Purples etc should be kept apart from Reds, Oranges and Pinks, although if you're clever, you can mix them without them looking messy. Plant the odd architectural plant here and there such as a Phormium or Cordyline and maybe a miniature Fruit Tree such as Cherry or Apple.
Reply:The Basics: Perennials
How to Design and Care for Perennial Gardens
For many gardeners, there's nothing like a full perennial border with a crisp edge of lawn.
Perennial plants are the backbone of nearly every flower garden. Unlike annual plants, which must be replanted each spring, herbaceous perennials die to the ground at the end of the season, and then regrow from the same roots the following year. People grow perennial flowers because they are such easy-care, dependable performers, and because they offer an enormous variety of color, texture and form. Here are the basics of garden design, plant selection and care.
The lifespan, bloom time, culture and form of perennial plants varies greatly. Some species, such as lupines and delphinium, are so called "short-lived" perennials, with a lifespan of just three or four years. Others may live as long as fifteen years, or even, in the case of peonies, a lifetime. Bloom time may last for only two weeks each year, or may extend over two or three months.
Some perennials, such as primroses, require deep humusy soil and plenty of shade, while others such as threadleaf coreopsis and cushion spurge wither away unless they grow in well-drained soil and full sun. Some perennials contain themselves in a nice, neat mound, while others, such as gooseneck loosestrife, will take over your entire garden. Some species should be cut back in midsummer, while others, such as hybrid lilies, may die if you remove their foliage.
There are so many different species and cultivars of perennial flowers to choose from that few people ever become completely familiar with all the options. For the perennial gardener, books are an invaluable resource. They provide photographs for identification (and inspiration!), cultural information, a description of growth habits, bloom time, color and characteristics of special cultivars. Invest in a good how-to book that has cultural information, and a color encyclopedia to help you identify plants and plan your selections.
What's in a Name?
It may be hard to believe, but scientific plant names are used to avoid confusion, not create it. They are developed by taxonomists to ensure that the same plant is called the same name throughout the world, regardless of language. Scientific plant names are usually a combination of Latin and Greek.
Common names, such as "bleeding heart," are often used to refer to all the plants in a genus and are useful unless you want to ensure you are purchasing a 24-inch high, spring-blooming bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) rather than the ever-blooming species known as the fringed bleeding heart, which is only 12 inches high (Dicentra eximia). To learn more about botanical names, look for a copy of Gardener's Latin by Bill Neal (Algonquin Books, 1992).
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba': (old-fashioned white bleeding heart)
Dicentra: The first name is the genus. It is always capitalized.
spectabilis: The second name is the species. It is not capitalized.
'Alba': The third name, which appears in single quotes, is the cultivar (cultivated variety).
Fellow gardeners are another great source of information about perennials. They can give you firsthand details about bloom time, height, hardiness and cultural requirements, and, if you visit their gardens, you can also see for yourself what the plants really look like up close. Nothing beats seeing a plant in a garden setting, where you can observe how it is being used. You may even go home with some pass-along plants for your own garden.
There's just no way to know how a plant will do for you unless you give it a try. If it turns out to be too tall, the color is wrong, or the plant doesn't thrive, you can always move it and try something different.
Perennial Planting Styles
Few if any "perennial gardens" contain only herbaceous perennials. Woody plants, such as shrubs, roses, and trees, are often incorporated to provide a backdrop for the perennial plants, or are used to fill in and give mass to the bed or border. Many gardeners include annuals or biennials in their perennial gardens to provide splashes of dependable color throughout the season. Bulbs are added for early spring color and ornamental grasses for their interesting textures and late-season beauty.
Traditionally, perennial gardens have been laid out in one of two ways: a border or an island bed. A border is typically a long, rectangular flower bed that is about two to four feet deep. The classic English perennial border, which was so popular in the first half of the 20th century, was often as much as eight feet deep and 200-feet long. But for most home gardeners, a better size is about three feet deep and about 12 to 15 feet long.
Borders are usually viewed from only one side, and are located in front of a backdrop. This backdrop may be created with shrubs, a hedge, a fence or a stone wall. A well-defined front edge is important. You may design a solo border, or a matched pair. When selecting plants, keep in mind that borders usually look best when there is a repeating theme of plants and colors.
An island bed is a garden that floats in a "sea" of lawn. The shape is irregular, with gentle curves and no sharp corners. It is usually designed to be viewed from all sides, with the tallest plants positioned along the center line of the bed, and the shortest plants around the edges. Island beds look best when they are generous in size. A good size for an island bed is 8-by-15 feet, with the tallest plants reaching a height of about five feet.
Of course perennial flower gardens sometimes look nothing like a traditional border or island bed. Rock gardens break all the rules, for the objective is usually to create an irregular, natural-looking rock outcropping where tiny alpine plants can be featured.
Shade gardens are often irregularly-shaped, because they follow the natural shade patterns of the trees above. Another emerging style for perennial gardens is the large, free-form garden. In this case, the garden is defined by a series of meandering paths that lead the viewer right into and then through the plantings. Perennial flowers can also be mixed in among shrubs, planted around your mailbox, used in woodland or streamside plantings, or even planted in containers.
Arranging Your Plants
The appearance of a perennial garden depends as much upon the shapes of your plants and how they are arranged, as upon their colors.
Height: You'll want to place the tallest plants in the back of the border, or in the center of an island bed, then work down in height, ending with the shortest plants around the edges of an island bed or the front of a border. Books and labels usually list the average mature height for a plant in bloom. Remember that many plants hold their flowers well above the foliage. This means that when the plant is out of bloom, it may be much shorter than the specified height.
Heights are also an average. When grown in poor, dry soil, a plant may be only half as tall as the same plant grown in rich, moist soil. Be prepared to move your plants around once you see how tall (or short) they really grow. Even the most experienced gardeners rearrange their plants (usually more than once!).
Width: A plant's width, or spread, is just as important as its height. Width figures given in books or on labels are also an average. The actual width of a plant will vary depending on soils, geographical location and the age of the plant. Be careful about locating slow-growers very close to rapid spreaders. The former may all but disappear by the end of the first growing season.
Spacing: Patience is a virtue, but when most people plant a perennial garden, their goal is to create a full effect as soon as possible. The challenge is to plant thickly, but not break the bank, or create a crowded, unhealthy situation two or three years down the line. When planting a grouping or "drift" of the same kind of plants, you can put them closer together to create a massed look more quickly.
Another trick is to place short-lived plants between slower-growing, long-lived plants. Most peonies, for example, have an ultimate spread of three feet, but it may take seven years for them to reach this size. While you're waiting, you could interplant with Shasta daisies, a fast-growing, short-lived plant that will provide a full look and plenty of flowers while the peonies get themselves established.
Drifts versus specimens: A garden planted with groupings of five or more plants of the same variety will display drifts of repeating colors and textures. In this type of garden, plants are used primarily as design elements that add up to a pleasing and integrated visual effect.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the collector's garden, filled with onezies and twozies of all different kinds of plants. These are the gardens of people who simply love plants and want to have one of everything. The look of this type of garden may be a jumble of colors and textures, and maintenance is usually more challenging, but these gardens are about plants first, and design second.
How to Select Plants
When it comes to deciding which perennials to plant, most of us are not very deliberate about our choices. We succumb to a luscious photo in a catalog, stumble upon an irresistible beauty at the nursery, or a neighbor sends us home with a bag full of cast-offs. If you ever do set out to make an informed and deliberate choice, here are some of the things that you should think about.
Your site: Perennials, like all plants, will live longer and be healthier and more floriferous if they are planted in a location that suits them. Does your garden have sandy soil or is it heavy clay? Is it in the sun or shade? Is the soil moist or droughty? Is the pH high, low, or neutral? Is the site flat, gently sloped, or steep? A good reference book can help you figure out which plants will probably be happy in the growing conditions that you can provide.
Hardiness: If a plant is not hardy in your growing zone, it will not survive the winter. If you don't know which zone you live in, check a USDA Hardiness Zone Map. Though knowing your zone is very important, altitude, wind exposure, soils and snow cover can have a dramatic impact on plant hardiness, effectively shifting the hardiness rating for your garden by as much as a full zone.
For best results, choose plants that are well within your zone. You will probably be tempted by those that are at or even just beyond your growing zone. If you can afford to take the gamble (financially and emotionally), it can be very rewarding to discover that you can grow a couple of Zone 5 plants in your Zone 4 garden. Where snow cover is not dependable, a winter mulch of leaves or straw can help marginally hardy plants survive a cold winter. Well-drained soil is also a benefit. Heavy, wet soils will often heave and damage plant roots.
Northern gardeners concern themselves with the minimum temperatures that a plant will tolerate, but Southern gardeners must also pay attention to zone ratings. Many popular perennials, including lupines, peonies, and garden phlox, must be exposed to a period of subfreezing temperatures to produce a good display of flowers. Other perennials will simply not tolerate long periods of heat and humidity.
Color: In working with color, aim for a balance of integration and contrast. Too much of the same color can be monotonous, yet a cacophony of different colors can be jarring rather than pleasing to the eye. You may want to organize your garden around one color; or choose a theme such as pastels, cool colors, or hot colors. You can also experiment with different color themes in different parts of your garden—hot colors by the front door and cool colors in a quieter part of the yard.
Remember that few perennials are in bloom for more than a couple of weeks each year. Most of the time, plants are green, and it is their leaf form and foliage texture that are the "color" in your garden.
Bloom time: A perennial may be in bloom for two weeks a year or for as long as three months. If your objective is all-season color, choose several plants from each bloom season. When selecting plants for a spring garden, concentrate on those that bloom during April and May. After that peak, the garden may lack color for the rest of the season, but you will have achieved a spectacular spring display. For best effect, group at least two or three different varieties of plants together that will bloom at the same time.
Remember that specified bloom time is only an average. In California, April may be the peak bloom time for bearded iris, yet in Vermont, the same plant will not bloom until early June. Recording the bloom times of various perennials in your garden will become an invaluable reference. No book, no matter how good, will be as accurate as your own observations about when plants bloom and how they perform in your own garden.
Seedling, potted or field-grown: When purchasing perennials, try to get the largest, most mature plant that you can afford. The bigger the plant, the more quickly it will fill out and the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically plants are available in pot sizes ranging from 3-inch diameter to 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials can be planted from spring through fall, and will suffer minimal transplant shock.
Some mail-order companies ship their plants bareroot (without soil). Bareroot perennials are usually available only in early spring when the plants are still dormant. The roots must be kept moist, and the plant should be put into the garden as soon as possible (within a couple of days). Once the plant is in the ground and has emerged from its dormant state, it will take hold relatively fast.
A few local nurseries still offer field-grown perennials. These plants are dug up when you come for them and they need to be transplanted immediately (within a few hours) to minimize transplant shock. Field-grown perennials are usually the largest and most mature plants around, but today most nurseries only offer container-grown perennials.
Vigor: Vigor can be good, but it can also create problems. Plants that are too vigorous can invade neighboring plants and gradually take over your entire garden. Determining a plant's propensity for invasiveness can be difficult, because poor growing conditions can render a normally invasive plant relatively tame, whereas in fertile soil, a normally restrained plant may exhibit invasive tendencies.
Look closely at plant descriptions and be wary of those described as "vigorous." This may be a euphemism for an invasive plant that you'll wish you never set eyes on. Perennials with a reputation for invasiveness include: bamboo, Macleaya cordata (plume poppy), Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant), Monarda (bee balm), Artemisia ludoviciana (Silver King artemisia), Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosestrife), Tanacetum vulgare (tansy), Aegopodium (goutweed), and Boltonia asteroides.
Maintaining a Perennial Garden
Though most flowering perennials are dependable, easy-care performers, all perennial gardens require some maintenance. Here are the eight most important steps to ensure a healthy and floriferous garden:
1. Fertilizing
Most perennials are not heavy feeders and they will be happy with one spring application of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (5-10-5). For established plantings, scratch in a good handful of fertilizer around each plant. Annual or biennial applications of aged manure or finished compost will restore trace elements and improve soil texture and water retention.
2. Watering
A perennial garden does not require as much water as a vegetable garden. Depending on where you live, if you select plants suited to your site, and mulch them well, you may not need to water at all. If you live where summers are very dry and you do need to water, try to water deeply and avoid getting water on the foliage (soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are great for perennial gardens).
3. Mulching
By early summer, a densely planted perennial garden will shade out most weeds. But a new garden, a spring garden or a garden that is more sparsely planted, will benefit from some kind of mulch. The mulch will keep weeds to a minimum and help retain moisture in the soil.
The aesthetics of the mulch are as important as the function. Your garden will look best with a finely textured material such as shredded leaves, dry grass clippings, peanut shells, cocoa hulls or shredded bark. Big chunks of bark, newspaper or straw will overpower your plants.
4. Neat Edges
A neat, cleanly defined edge between your lawn and flower bed will give your garden a professional look. You can achieve this in one of two ways: get a nice sharp edging tool and recut the edge several times during the growing season; or install some permanent edging. A defined edge will also help keep grass and weeds from growing into the bed.
5. Pinching
Some kinds of perennials, including asters, chrysanthemums, phlox and salvias, benefit from being pinched back. Pinching creates a bushier plant that produces more blooms and is less likely to flop over. Pinch back the growing tips--using thumb and forefinger--once or twice during late spring. Not all kinds of perennials should be pinched. If in doubt, pinch a little here and there, and see what happens.
6. Deadheading
Some plants drop their spent flowers and seed heads. Others hold onto them for months, or even right through the winter. Removing spent flowers will keep your plants looking their best, and it often stimulates reblooming. It also prevents plants from expending their energy on seed production. After bloom, some plants should be shorn rather than deadheaded. This is true for creeping phlox, nepeta, hardy geraniums, daisies, pinks and lavender.
7. Staking
Many tall or weak-stemmed plants need support when they reach blooming size. Delphiniums and hybrid lilies are two prime candidates. But other, shorter plants can also benefit from some kind of support. Supports should be as invisible as possible. For individual stems, you can use bamboo canes. For entire plants you can use wire support rings. For loose and airy plants, try using a few thin branches. For best results, put the supports into position in early spring. That way the plants will hide the supports as they grow.
8. Dividing
If your perennials are happy, most of them will need to be divided every few years. They may become too large for the space; the center or oldest part of the plant may die out leaving a bare middle; or the growth may become so dense that the plant is no longer blooming well.
Use a shovel to remove the entire plant from the garden and place the root ball on a tarp. Then you can either pry the plant into pieces using two forks, tease the pieces of the plant apart into different sections, or use a shovel or knife to cut the plant into several pieces. Plants should not be divided when they are in bloom or in full growth. In all but a few cases, this is a job for early spring or late fall.
Perennial Tips for the Ages
When planting a new perennial garden, prepare the soil well at the outset. That may be your only opportunity to loosen the soil, remove rocks, and add organic matter.
If you start plants by seed, put your first-year seedlings in a "nursery bed" rather than directly into your flower garden. They will not bloom or have much of a presence until their second year anyway, and a nursery bed will allow you to keep a better eye on their performance.
Most perennials should be divided in early spring when new growth is only a few inches high. If you miss your chance in the spring, wait until fall. Irises are the one major exception to this rule: they should be transplanted in early summer, right after they have bloomed.
Keep newly transplanted perennials well watered for the first few weeks. Water deeply to saturate the entire root ball and establish good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil.
Most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, although, some prefer more alkaline or acidic soil. If you have trouble with a particular plant, check its pH requirements and the pH level of the soil in your flower garden.
If your plants look stressed during the growing season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer (try a blend of seaweed and fish emulsion).
All plants die eventually, and some will die sooner than others, no matter what you do about it. If a plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different location. If it still is not happy, give it away or send it to the compost pile.
When designing a perennial garden, think about how you'll get access to your plants to stake, deadhead, or divide them. Flat rocks can be used as stepping stones within the garden. A walkway created at the back of a border will be hidden during the growing season, but will make the bed accessible for spring and fall chores.
Reply:Yarrow is actually a roadside weed that's been hybridized for colors. I don't care for it. You can get perrenial wildflower mix at Wal-Mart for specific areas,ie, sunny, shady etc. To give it a good start, prepare the planting area with some good compost and soil.
Nanny Profile
do you plant many by throwing seeds out, just like you would for zinnias??
I am new to gardening.
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
Generally speaking, perennials are very easy to grow. I wouldn't just scatter the seeds without soil preparation first though. Make sure you have the taller ones to the back of the bed, medium height to the middle and smaller ones to the front. be careful with the colour schemes. Cooler colours i.e. Whites, Blues, Purples etc should be kept apart from Reds, Oranges and Pinks, although if you're clever, you can mix them without them looking messy. Plant the odd architectural plant here and there such as a Phormium or Cordyline and maybe a miniature Fruit Tree such as Cherry or Apple.
Reply:The Basics: Perennials
How to Design and Care for Perennial Gardens
For many gardeners, there's nothing like a full perennial border with a crisp edge of lawn.
Perennial plants are the backbone of nearly every flower garden. Unlike annual plants, which must be replanted each spring, herbaceous perennials die to the ground at the end of the season, and then regrow from the same roots the following year. People grow perennial flowers because they are such easy-care, dependable performers, and because they offer an enormous variety of color, texture and form. Here are the basics of garden design, plant selection and care.
The lifespan, bloom time, culture and form of perennial plants varies greatly. Some species, such as lupines and delphinium, are so called "short-lived" perennials, with a lifespan of just three or four years. Others may live as long as fifteen years, or even, in the case of peonies, a lifetime. Bloom time may last for only two weeks each year, or may extend over two or three months.
Some perennials, such as primroses, require deep humusy soil and plenty of shade, while others such as threadleaf coreopsis and cushion spurge wither away unless they grow in well-drained soil and full sun. Some perennials contain themselves in a nice, neat mound, while others, such as gooseneck loosestrife, will take over your entire garden. Some species should be cut back in midsummer, while others, such as hybrid lilies, may die if you remove their foliage.
There are so many different species and cultivars of perennial flowers to choose from that few people ever become completely familiar with all the options. For the perennial gardener, books are an invaluable resource. They provide photographs for identification (and inspiration!), cultural information, a description of growth habits, bloom time, color and characteristics of special cultivars. Invest in a good how-to book that has cultural information, and a color encyclopedia to help you identify plants and plan your selections.
What's in a Name?
It may be hard to believe, but scientific plant names are used to avoid confusion, not create it. They are developed by taxonomists to ensure that the same plant is called the same name throughout the world, regardless of language. Scientific plant names are usually a combination of Latin and Greek.
Common names, such as "bleeding heart," are often used to refer to all the plants in a genus and are useful unless you want to ensure you are purchasing a 24-inch high, spring-blooming bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) rather than the ever-blooming species known as the fringed bleeding heart, which is only 12 inches high (Dicentra eximia). To learn more about botanical names, look for a copy of Gardener's Latin by Bill Neal (Algonquin Books, 1992).
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba': (old-fashioned white bleeding heart)
Dicentra: The first name is the genus. It is always capitalized.
spectabilis: The second name is the species. It is not capitalized.
'Alba': The third name, which appears in single quotes, is the cultivar (cultivated variety).
Fellow gardeners are another great source of information about perennials. They can give you firsthand details about bloom time, height, hardiness and cultural requirements, and, if you visit their gardens, you can also see for yourself what the plants really look like up close. Nothing beats seeing a plant in a garden setting, where you can observe how it is being used. You may even go home with some pass-along plants for your own garden.
There's just no way to know how a plant will do for you unless you give it a try. If it turns out to be too tall, the color is wrong, or the plant doesn't thrive, you can always move it and try something different.
Perennial Planting Styles
Few if any "perennial gardens" contain only herbaceous perennials. Woody plants, such as shrubs, roses, and trees, are often incorporated to provide a backdrop for the perennial plants, or are used to fill in and give mass to the bed or border. Many gardeners include annuals or biennials in their perennial gardens to provide splashes of dependable color throughout the season. Bulbs are added for early spring color and ornamental grasses for their interesting textures and late-season beauty.
Traditionally, perennial gardens have been laid out in one of two ways: a border or an island bed. A border is typically a long, rectangular flower bed that is about two to four feet deep. The classic English perennial border, which was so popular in the first half of the 20th century, was often as much as eight feet deep and 200-feet long. But for most home gardeners, a better size is about three feet deep and about 12 to 15 feet long.
Borders are usually viewed from only one side, and are located in front of a backdrop. This backdrop may be created with shrubs, a hedge, a fence or a stone wall. A well-defined front edge is important. You may design a solo border, or a matched pair. When selecting plants, keep in mind that borders usually look best when there is a repeating theme of plants and colors.
An island bed is a garden that floats in a "sea" of lawn. The shape is irregular, with gentle curves and no sharp corners. It is usually designed to be viewed from all sides, with the tallest plants positioned along the center line of the bed, and the shortest plants around the edges. Island beds look best when they are generous in size. A good size for an island bed is 8-by-15 feet, with the tallest plants reaching a height of about five feet.
Of course perennial flower gardens sometimes look nothing like a traditional border or island bed. Rock gardens break all the rules, for the objective is usually to create an irregular, natural-looking rock outcropping where tiny alpine plants can be featured.
Shade gardens are often irregularly-shaped, because they follow the natural shade patterns of the trees above. Another emerging style for perennial gardens is the large, free-form garden. In this case, the garden is defined by a series of meandering paths that lead the viewer right into and then through the plantings. Perennial flowers can also be mixed in among shrubs, planted around your mailbox, used in woodland or streamside plantings, or even planted in containers.
Arranging Your Plants
The appearance of a perennial garden depends as much upon the shapes of your plants and how they are arranged, as upon their colors.
Height: You'll want to place the tallest plants in the back of the border, or in the center of an island bed, then work down in height, ending with the shortest plants around the edges of an island bed or the front of a border. Books and labels usually list the average mature height for a plant in bloom. Remember that many plants hold their flowers well above the foliage. This means that when the plant is out of bloom, it may be much shorter than the specified height.
Heights are also an average. When grown in poor, dry soil, a plant may be only half as tall as the same plant grown in rich, moist soil. Be prepared to move your plants around once you see how tall (or short) they really grow. Even the most experienced gardeners rearrange their plants (usually more than once!).
Width: A plant's width, or spread, is just as important as its height. Width figures given in books or on labels are also an average. The actual width of a plant will vary depending on soils, geographical location and the age of the plant. Be careful about locating slow-growers very close to rapid spreaders. The former may all but disappear by the end of the first growing season.
Spacing: Patience is a virtue, but when most people plant a perennial garden, their goal is to create a full effect as soon as possible. The challenge is to plant thickly, but not break the bank, or create a crowded, unhealthy situation two or three years down the line. When planting a grouping or "drift" of the same kind of plants, you can put them closer together to create a massed look more quickly.
Another trick is to place short-lived plants between slower-growing, long-lived plants. Most peonies, for example, have an ultimate spread of three feet, but it may take seven years for them to reach this size. While you're waiting, you could interplant with Shasta daisies, a fast-growing, short-lived plant that will provide a full look and plenty of flowers while the peonies get themselves established.
Drifts versus specimens: A garden planted with groupings of five or more plants of the same variety will display drifts of repeating colors and textures. In this type of garden, plants are used primarily as design elements that add up to a pleasing and integrated visual effect.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the collector's garden, filled with onezies and twozies of all different kinds of plants. These are the gardens of people who simply love plants and want to have one of everything. The look of this type of garden may be a jumble of colors and textures, and maintenance is usually more challenging, but these gardens are about plants first, and design second.
How to Select Plants
When it comes to deciding which perennials to plant, most of us are not very deliberate about our choices. We succumb to a luscious photo in a catalog, stumble upon an irresistible beauty at the nursery, or a neighbor sends us home with a bag full of cast-offs. If you ever do set out to make an informed and deliberate choice, here are some of the things that you should think about.
Your site: Perennials, like all plants, will live longer and be healthier and more floriferous if they are planted in a location that suits them. Does your garden have sandy soil or is it heavy clay? Is it in the sun or shade? Is the soil moist or droughty? Is the pH high, low, or neutral? Is the site flat, gently sloped, or steep? A good reference book can help you figure out which plants will probably be happy in the growing conditions that you can provide.
Hardiness: If a plant is not hardy in your growing zone, it will not survive the winter. If you don't know which zone you live in, check a USDA Hardiness Zone Map. Though knowing your zone is very important, altitude, wind exposure, soils and snow cover can have a dramatic impact on plant hardiness, effectively shifting the hardiness rating for your garden by as much as a full zone.
For best results, choose plants that are well within your zone. You will probably be tempted by those that are at or even just beyond your growing zone. If you can afford to take the gamble (financially and emotionally), it can be very rewarding to discover that you can grow a couple of Zone 5 plants in your Zone 4 garden. Where snow cover is not dependable, a winter mulch of leaves or straw can help marginally hardy plants survive a cold winter. Well-drained soil is also a benefit. Heavy, wet soils will often heave and damage plant roots.
Northern gardeners concern themselves with the minimum temperatures that a plant will tolerate, but Southern gardeners must also pay attention to zone ratings. Many popular perennials, including lupines, peonies, and garden phlox, must be exposed to a period of subfreezing temperatures to produce a good display of flowers. Other perennials will simply not tolerate long periods of heat and humidity.
Color: In working with color, aim for a balance of integration and contrast. Too much of the same color can be monotonous, yet a cacophony of different colors can be jarring rather than pleasing to the eye. You may want to organize your garden around one color; or choose a theme such as pastels, cool colors, or hot colors. You can also experiment with different color themes in different parts of your garden—hot colors by the front door and cool colors in a quieter part of the yard.
Remember that few perennials are in bloom for more than a couple of weeks each year. Most of the time, plants are green, and it is their leaf form and foliage texture that are the "color" in your garden.
Bloom time: A perennial may be in bloom for two weeks a year or for as long as three months. If your objective is all-season color, choose several plants from each bloom season. When selecting plants for a spring garden, concentrate on those that bloom during April and May. After that peak, the garden may lack color for the rest of the season, but you will have achieved a spectacular spring display. For best effect, group at least two or three different varieties of plants together that will bloom at the same time.
Remember that specified bloom time is only an average. In California, April may be the peak bloom time for bearded iris, yet in Vermont, the same plant will not bloom until early June. Recording the bloom times of various perennials in your garden will become an invaluable reference. No book, no matter how good, will be as accurate as your own observations about when plants bloom and how they perform in your own garden.
Seedling, potted or field-grown: When purchasing perennials, try to get the largest, most mature plant that you can afford. The bigger the plant, the more quickly it will fill out and the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically plants are available in pot sizes ranging from 3-inch diameter to 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials can be planted from spring through fall, and will suffer minimal transplant shock.
Some mail-order companies ship their plants bareroot (without soil). Bareroot perennials are usually available only in early spring when the plants are still dormant. The roots must be kept moist, and the plant should be put into the garden as soon as possible (within a couple of days). Once the plant is in the ground and has emerged from its dormant state, it will take hold relatively fast.
A few local nurseries still offer field-grown perennials. These plants are dug up when you come for them and they need to be transplanted immediately (within a few hours) to minimize transplant shock. Field-grown perennials are usually the largest and most mature plants around, but today most nurseries only offer container-grown perennials.
Vigor: Vigor can be good, but it can also create problems. Plants that are too vigorous can invade neighboring plants and gradually take over your entire garden. Determining a plant's propensity for invasiveness can be difficult, because poor growing conditions can render a normally invasive plant relatively tame, whereas in fertile soil, a normally restrained plant may exhibit invasive tendencies.
Look closely at plant descriptions and be wary of those described as "vigorous." This may be a euphemism for an invasive plant that you'll wish you never set eyes on. Perennials with a reputation for invasiveness include: bamboo, Macleaya cordata (plume poppy), Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant), Monarda (bee balm), Artemisia ludoviciana (Silver King artemisia), Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosestrife), Tanacetum vulgare (tansy), Aegopodium (goutweed), and Boltonia asteroides.
Maintaining a Perennial Garden
Though most flowering perennials are dependable, easy-care performers, all perennial gardens require some maintenance. Here are the eight most important steps to ensure a healthy and floriferous garden:
1. Fertilizing
Most perennials are not heavy feeders and they will be happy with one spring application of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (5-10-5). For established plantings, scratch in a good handful of fertilizer around each plant. Annual or biennial applications of aged manure or finished compost will restore trace elements and improve soil texture and water retention.
2. Watering
A perennial garden does not require as much water as a vegetable garden. Depending on where you live, if you select plants suited to your site, and mulch them well, you may not need to water at all. If you live where summers are very dry and you do need to water, try to water deeply and avoid getting water on the foliage (soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are great for perennial gardens).
3. Mulching
By early summer, a densely planted perennial garden will shade out most weeds. But a new garden, a spring garden or a garden that is more sparsely planted, will benefit from some kind of mulch. The mulch will keep weeds to a minimum and help retain moisture in the soil.
The aesthetics of the mulch are as important as the function. Your garden will look best with a finely textured material such as shredded leaves, dry grass clippings, peanut shells, cocoa hulls or shredded bark. Big chunks of bark, newspaper or straw will overpower your plants.
4. Neat Edges
A neat, cleanly defined edge between your lawn and flower bed will give your garden a professional look. You can achieve this in one of two ways: get a nice sharp edging tool and recut the edge several times during the growing season; or install some permanent edging. A defined edge will also help keep grass and weeds from growing into the bed.
5. Pinching
Some kinds of perennials, including asters, chrysanthemums, phlox and salvias, benefit from being pinched back. Pinching creates a bushier plant that produces more blooms and is less likely to flop over. Pinch back the growing tips--using thumb and forefinger--once or twice during late spring. Not all kinds of perennials should be pinched. If in doubt, pinch a little here and there, and see what happens.
6. Deadheading
Some plants drop their spent flowers and seed heads. Others hold onto them for months, or even right through the winter. Removing spent flowers will keep your plants looking their best, and it often stimulates reblooming. It also prevents plants from expending their energy on seed production. After bloom, some plants should be shorn rather than deadheaded. This is true for creeping phlox, nepeta, hardy geraniums, daisies, pinks and lavender.
7. Staking
Many tall or weak-stemmed plants need support when they reach blooming size. Delphiniums and hybrid lilies are two prime candidates. But other, shorter plants can also benefit from some kind of support. Supports should be as invisible as possible. For individual stems, you can use bamboo canes. For entire plants you can use wire support rings. For loose and airy plants, try using a few thin branches. For best results, put the supports into position in early spring. That way the plants will hide the supports as they grow.
8. Dividing
If your perennials are happy, most of them will need to be divided every few years. They may become too large for the space; the center or oldest part of the plant may die out leaving a bare middle; or the growth may become so dense that the plant is no longer blooming well.
Use a shovel to remove the entire plant from the garden and place the root ball on a tarp. Then you can either pry the plant into pieces using two forks, tease the pieces of the plant apart into different sections, or use a shovel or knife to cut the plant into several pieces. Plants should not be divided when they are in bloom or in full growth. In all but a few cases, this is a job for early spring or late fall.
Perennial Tips for the Ages
When planting a new perennial garden, prepare the soil well at the outset. That may be your only opportunity to loosen the soil, remove rocks, and add organic matter.
If you start plants by seed, put your first-year seedlings in a "nursery bed" rather than directly into your flower garden. They will not bloom or have much of a presence until their second year anyway, and a nursery bed will allow you to keep a better eye on their performance.
Most perennials should be divided in early spring when new growth is only a few inches high. If you miss your chance in the spring, wait until fall. Irises are the one major exception to this rule: they should be transplanted in early summer, right after they have bloomed.
Keep newly transplanted perennials well watered for the first few weeks. Water deeply to saturate the entire root ball and establish good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil.
Most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, although, some prefer more alkaline or acidic soil. If you have trouble with a particular plant, check its pH requirements and the pH level of the soil in your flower garden.
If your plants look stressed during the growing season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer (try a blend of seaweed and fish emulsion).
All plants die eventually, and some will die sooner than others, no matter what you do about it. If a plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different location. If it still is not happy, give it away or send it to the compost pile.
When designing a perennial garden, think about how you'll get access to your plants to stake, deadhead, or divide them. Flat rocks can be used as stepping stones within the garden. A walkway created at the back of a border will be hidden during the growing season, but will make the bed accessible for spring and fall chores.
Reply:Yarrow is actually a roadside weed that's been hybridized for colors. I don't care for it. You can get perrenial wildflower mix at Wal-Mart for specific areas,ie, sunny, shady etc. To give it a good start, prepare the planting area with some good compost and soil.
Nanny Profile
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